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Blown brake line, what's the line size?

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  #11  
Old 08-15-2022, 02:12 AM
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Trip canceled, I ****ed up. I cross threaded the abs block somehow, even though I took special care to avoid doing so. I ran the line, everything was good. Went to purge the line of air and kept hearing garglign from the block. Upon investigation, i found that I threaded the line wrong. Despite every attemt to avoid doing so. I'm pissed at myself, I'm going to have to find anew block or overboar the one i have.

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  #12  
Old 08-15-2022, 06:04 AM
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Amazing picture given access down there is very difficult, particularly that line, I can see the FL gland is tilted & cross-threaded, however I wouldn't beat myself up over it. The other lines and glands look very corroded, you may have to "bite the bullet" and do a full brake-line refit.

You were fortunate the gland came out, however the other lines may prove more challenging. The aluminum corrosion/salts around the top of the threads effectively acts like "thread-locker" and even on the bench and the right tools, they may not budge. I found I had to use a bench vice to grip the glands whilst rotating the module, even then it was difficult, almost ripped the vice out the bench!

It's your call, but before giving-up on the block, I'd be tempted to try the following:-
  1. Get the ECBM / ABS pump on the work bench (your going to need to do this anyway)
  2. Gently back-out the old gland using some cutting fluid as lubricant (can't believe you used the old gland!) If the hole really is foo-barred, then switch to plan B.
  3. Buy a good quality "bottom-tap" and "taper-tap" to 100% match the thread DIA and pitch of the FL brake gland, also get some cutting fluid, not for cutting, just for re-dressing the threads and reducing friction. Also buy a packet of new glands.
  4. Inspect the hole and note it is incredibly difficult to completely damage a thread, effectively it gets over-cut by the "drunken" thread until the screw binds and stops, most of the original thread is likely to still be there.
  5. Using a sharp point, clean-up and remove any corrosion around the 1st few threads of the hole, but eventually you'll need to do this to all the ports.
  6. It's likely only the 1st 1/3rd to 1/2 of the thread is damaged, vertically align the tap and starting with the taper-tap (plus fluid) carefully pick-up on the original threads and gently wind-in the tap down making sure no to try and go beyond the depth of the hole. If the taper-tap fails to pick-up then just try using the bottom-tap. There should be very little effort required, stop and back-up if the tap doesn't feel right, you may have to try several times or even use a sharp point to overcome the cross-cuts in the threads just to get the tap started.
  7. Once the thread has been re-started, repeat using the bottom-tap again making sure not to try and go beyond the hole depth. There should be very little swarf as this is just re-dressing the thread path, not cutting !
  8. You may be surprised just how well the thread recovers and looks. Thoroughly de-grease (important !) the hole and try winding in a new gland with a section of formed-pipe and check it can be torqued-up to the correct amount (you'll need to check but it's probably around 35 ft/lbs - 40ft/lbs) SS lines are harder to seal so the thread will need to be strong up to the task. This is a valid go/no-go "stress-test" which it must pass, but if it fails you will have your answer. Degreasing the hole 1st is important as any lubrication changes the torque characteristics and you can easily over-torque the thread.
  9. Check the bottom of the hole is not damaged and ensure no debris gets in there.
It will be your call as to how successful the operation was but I would certainly not try tapping a bigger hole, I think the complexity and risks are too great.

If you do manage to recover your module, you'll have to be mega-careful not to cross-thread the FL line again, all the glands should wind-in all the way easily, and by hand.

The bottom of the hole and pipe-flange forms the seal, not the threads. The diagram below is the contraction of the module assembly.



If all else fail (plan B) perhaps you can find an ABS module repair service to help you.
 
  #13  
Old 08-15-2022, 09:17 AM
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For your reference ...
 
  #14  
Old 08-15-2022, 09:52 AM
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A taper-tap may not be effective, as you can see there is not a lot of depth to work with and you can only go down as far as the sealing protrusion at the bottom of the thread.
There's hardly room for a larger hole, plus a special concave bottom-tap would probably be needed to get all the way down.


 
  #15  
Old 10-12-2022, 10:39 PM
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I’d replace them all. I blew a rear, the other rear and left front was leaking. The connectors on the ABS Pump unit were very rusted. Bought a whole SS set and 6 hoses from SS Tubes. It’s a PITA!
 
  #16  
Old 05-02-2024, 01:43 AM
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Default Brake lines on a 2003 H2 Hummer

Originally Posted by FatJay
Finally fixed my 07 h2's power steering radiator, pulled it out, and promptly blew a brake line. The line that blew came out of the pump on the bottom frame rail, and goes to the front drivers side wheel. I have searched and searched for the line size for weeks and have come up with nothing. I put my micrometer on it and it's larger than 1/4, but I don't know if it's because of the coating or something else.

I would be very grateful if someone could share their experience with replacing a brake line.
Yeah I can tell you what size brake lines are on H2 Hummer I have a 2003 H2 Hummer don’t know if the 2007 H2 Hummer are the same as the 03-06 because they did make a lot of changes to the 07-09 models but I’m sure they kept the brake lines the same I would think they would have but from the master cylinder to the ABS pump it’s a 5/16 line because it feeds all four lines to the ABS pump and from the ABS pump to the front lines are 1/4 line to the front brake hoses and from the ABS pump to the rear block that’s over the rear differential are 1/4 line but coming off the block to the rear brake hoses is a 3/16 line so yeah there’s 3 different size lines on it but it’s hard to find out what the line is coming off the master cylinder because they don’t list it and it’s slightly bigger than a 1/4 inch line which is the 5/16 line why they don’t list that as one of the lines I don’t know Its probably because the 3/16 and 1/4 are the standard lines and not so much as the 5/16 line maybe but that what they are on the H2 Hummer I just replaced mine after paying Firestone to replace all of them 3 years ago with 4 calipers paid over $1500 to have all that done just to find out I was lied to and scammed by them because all they did was replace the one piece of line that was leaking and not the rest of them that I paid for but charged me as if they did and they did not but change one line and 4 calipers but charged me for the whole job as if they changed all the brake lines to top it off they even talked me into getting the better lines so it would last longer and for the one line they did change they used a cheap cheap line to where it rusted out where the brake clip was at and blew along with two other ones that’s when I looked at it and noticed they were all rusted out and leaking I don’t know how I had brakes in the first place so now we have to go to court over it because they say they changed them with the nickel copper lines like ok if they would have they sure would not be rusted out with in 3 years they would still look in great condition for 3 years but people do not go to Firestone to have your vehicle worked on by then because two years before that I went to another Firestone and had a alignment done and they told me they couldn’t do it because I had a bad heart bearing on the passenger front so I paid them to put one on and do the alignment later that day I pick it up the next day I’m going to work and I still hear a noise so when I get out of work I go home and take the tire off to look at it to find out they never changed it the old one was still on it I go back the next day and tell them this the manger argues with me saying they did it and there tech comes in and says which one was it because I can’t tell because they’re both rusted and you can see neither one has been replaced so he shows me and the manger still saying they did it as another tech hears us talking about it and says there’s a wheel bearing on the bench over there that no one knows where it goes to they look up the part number to what it would be for my truck and look at the part number on the box of the wheel bearing and it’s the same part number so it was never put on but I paid for it so if I never had look at it they would have gotten away with it again so yeah I wouldn’t go back there ever again to have anything done I will drive to the next town over to get something done for now on because how can both shops of firestone scam me both times and my teen daughter just got her license and she drives that truck tank god it happened to me in the driveway backing up and not her going down the road and getting hurt but if there doing it to me you know there doing it to everyone else and I hope no one else’s daughter or kids get hurt having things done at Firestone.
 
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