Blown brake line, what's the line size?
#11
Trip canceled, I ****ed up. I cross threaded the abs block somehow, even though I took special care to avoid doing so. I ran the line, everything was good. Went to purge the line of air and kept hearing garglign from the block. Upon investigation, i found that I threaded the line wrong. Despite every attemt to avoid doing so. I'm pissed at myself, I'm going to have to find anew block or overboar the one i have.
#12
Amazing picture given access down there is very difficult, particularly that line, I can see the FL gland is tilted & cross-threaded, however I wouldn't beat myself up over it. The other lines and glands look very corroded, you may have to "bite the bullet" and do a full brake-line refit.
You were fortunate the gland came out, however the other lines may prove more challenging. The aluminum corrosion/salts around the top of the threads effectively acts like "thread-locker" and even on the bench and the right tools, they may not budge. I found I had to use a bench vice to grip the glands whilst rotating the module, even then it was difficult, almost ripped the vice out the bench!
It's your call, but before giving-up on the block, I'd be tempted to try the following:-
If you do manage to recover your module, you'll have to be mega-careful not to cross-thread the FL line again, all the glands should wind-in all the way easily, and by hand.
The bottom of the hole and pipe-flange forms the seal, not the threads. The diagram below is the contraction of the module assembly.
If all else fail (plan B) perhaps you can find an ABS module repair service to help you.
You were fortunate the gland came out, however the other lines may prove more challenging. The aluminum corrosion/salts around the top of the threads effectively acts like "thread-locker" and even on the bench and the right tools, they may not budge. I found I had to use a bench vice to grip the glands whilst rotating the module, even then it was difficult, almost ripped the vice out the bench!
It's your call, but before giving-up on the block, I'd be tempted to try the following:-
- Get the ECBM / ABS pump on the work bench (your going to need to do this anyway)
- Gently back-out the old gland using some cutting fluid as lubricant (can't believe you used the old gland!) If the hole really is foo-barred, then switch to plan B.
- Buy a good quality "bottom-tap" and "taper-tap" to 100% match the thread DIA and pitch of the FL brake gland, also get some cutting fluid, not for cutting, just for re-dressing the threads and reducing friction. Also buy a packet of new glands.
- Inspect the hole and note it is incredibly difficult to completely damage a thread, effectively it gets over-cut by the "drunken" thread until the screw binds and stops, most of the original thread is likely to still be there.
- Using a sharp point, clean-up and remove any corrosion around the 1st few threads of the hole, but eventually you'll need to do this to all the ports.
- It's likely only the 1st 1/3rd to 1/2 of the thread is damaged, vertically align the tap and starting with the taper-tap (plus fluid) carefully pick-up on the original threads and gently wind-in the tap down making sure no to try and go beyond the depth of the hole. If the taper-tap fails to pick-up then just try using the bottom-tap. There should be very little effort required, stop and back-up if the tap doesn't feel right, you may have to try several times or even use a sharp point to overcome the cross-cuts in the threads just to get the tap started.
- Once the thread has been re-started, repeat using the bottom-tap again making sure not to try and go beyond the hole depth. There should be very little swarf as this is just re-dressing the thread path, not cutting !
- You may be surprised just how well the thread recovers and looks. Thoroughly de-grease (important !) the hole and try winding in a new gland with a section of formed-pipe and check it can be torqued-up to the correct amount (you'll need to check but it's probably around 35 ft/lbs - 40ft/lbs) SS lines are harder to seal so the thread will need to be strong up to the task. This is a valid go/no-go "stress-test" which it must pass, but if it fails you will have your answer. Degreasing the hole 1st is important as any lubrication changes the torque characteristics and you can easily over-torque the thread.
- Check the bottom of the hole is not damaged and ensure no debris gets in there.
If you do manage to recover your module, you'll have to be mega-careful not to cross-thread the FL line again, all the glands should wind-in all the way easily, and by hand.
The bottom of the hole and pipe-flange forms the seal, not the threads. The diagram below is the contraction of the module assembly.
If all else fail (plan B) perhaps you can find an ABS module repair service to help you.
#14
A taper-tap may not be effective, as you can see there is not a lot of depth to work with and you can only go down as far as the sealing protrusion at the bottom of the thread.
There's hardly room for a larger hole, plus a special concave bottom-tap would probably be needed to get all the way down.
There's hardly room for a larger hole, plus a special concave bottom-tap would probably be needed to get all the way down.
#16
Brake lines on a 2003 H2 Hummer
Finally fixed my 07 h2's power steering radiator, pulled it out, and promptly blew a brake line. The line that blew came out of the pump on the bottom frame rail, and goes to the front drivers side wheel. I have searched and searched for the line size for weeks and have come up with nothing. I put my micrometer on it and it's larger than 1/4, but I don't know if it's because of the coating or something else.
I would be very grateful if someone could share their experience with replacing a brake line.
I would be very grateful if someone could share their experience with replacing a brake line.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post