@sturmbringer

Wow! Thank you so much for the ton of info. I really appreciate the details. I have to read thru it a couple more times to digest it all.

I see that Energy Suspension website does not show that the ENE-3.4156G will fit my 2007 H2. Or any year H2 for that matter. They list only a couple of parts for the H2. What am I missing? I am ready to buy this kit if it will work.

What year is your H2, and I presume they fit just fine?

I will not do the brake lines as they are still good. I do have a giant IR 800ftlb 1/2” impact that should make short work of things. Of course real torque I measured at about 170ftlb. Not sure why they lie so much. The retail store ones struggle to spin off the H2 lug nuts.

Do the brake lines really need to be disconnected if only lifting the body an inch to slide the body mounts out? Or is more clearance and line disconnect necessary?

 

Finall,

These are the exact products I used. you can see the UPC on the body mounts. Remember I am only using the steel candel sticks from the lonstar body mounts. I will be pitting the rubber and other stuff up on ebay with my Shifter Cover replacement I manufacture. (Shameless plug url listed on the bottom) =) Honestly, A 1500 or a 2500 is the same chassis. I wish I could have found them in Red though. Amazon only had them in Black. Mine is a 2004 and the only changes from the 03-07 to the 08-09 were the interior and the addition of the 6.2l Vortec and 6L80E Transmission. Those are my next big swaps, once my engine dies years form now. I have a 6L80E from a buddies 09 who did a Duramax conversion. He had a low Oil issue and I wish I would have snatched up the engine as well. Its a easy fix. The plastic GM barbell seals rotted. Its under the Rear main seal and a really easy fix if you have the tranny off. This week was updating to a new ACDelco Brake Master Cylinder and hydroboost. About an hour 45 min job. now all my brakes are 100% Stainless or brand new. Hope the tips were good!

Chris Sturmbringer







https://www.ebay.com/itm/334765244748

 

Thanks for the extra info. Bit confused. Were the 120mm long hex head cap screws and the SS washers for the body mounts or for the running boards on that list with the running boards? Guessing the body mounts, but earlier you said you recycled those old bolts, which I took meaning that you reused them.

I also see that more of the bolt is threaded in the first photo just below the body mount location schematic with the mounts. And maybe stepped also, but hard to tell from the photo. The brass colored ones in your last photo have less thread. Work just as well? So much thread not required?


How many washers are needed in total? Guessing 12, one per body mount bolt? I can get smaller packs here.

The red will match my red rig. I will use the same part # you did. BTW: did you notice any increase in frame to body vibration with the stiffer mounts?

 

Don't be so jumpy on the 6.2l/6l80 swap. Unless you have the 6l80 built first. Those transmissions are hot garbage compared to just swapping in a tried and true 4l80, and there's really no reason to swap the engine unless you have an issue.

 

Yea.. I'm on my forth 4L60E. I have even bypassed the radiator and have it going into a massive cooler now to try to keep one longer than 6 years. I do want to upgrade to the 6.2L or bigger... however their are compatibility issues with the 58x reducer ring of the 6.2l since the 4L60/80/90 are dumb transmission it would lead me to believe they would work in the 6.2L but a 6L/8L and 10L need to be compatible so they can talk to one another.

 

Finall,

Sorry, I was thinking you were doing the brake line swap as well. If you doing only the body mounts, you will need 12 of the bolts, 12 of the stainless washers, I strong impact, 19mm impact shorty socket and a jack and a bunch of cut and stacked 4x4s with interlocking #15 x6 Construction Lag Screws. You dont have to drain the master cylinder unless you are replacing the break lines, but you will need to remove the 2 15mm nuts from the hydroboost and pull the master cylinder forward so it clears the green bolts of the hydroboost. this will allow enough travel without messing anything up. When you stop and think about it, their are only a few systems that connect the frame to the body. Breaks, one main wiring trunk and the steering column. Both the wiring and the steering have enough slack to accommodate the 6 inches of lift to do most any repair.

 

Thanks Chris!

Most useful info. Much appreciate it. I will start gathering up these bits and pieces right now.

 

@sturmbringer

With your help and confidence, ordered the kit, SS washers, and now looking at ordering the bolts and possibly shims.

So I just got into this job a bit today, while turning my rotors.
Few more questions please:

1. I see the Dorman bolts in your photo are zinc chromate coated. But the ones Dorman pictures are all black. Any idea why that is? The specs on their website say they are black.
I see that Papco sells ones that look identical to the ones you pictured, and can be purchased individually as zinc chromate also.
But more expensive per unit. So a box from Amazon + 2 individual from Papco may be best.

2. I see that the OEM bushing uppers have 4 different part numbers. Presumably there is some variance. The kit you and I bought from Energy Suspension #3.2456 has all of the upper bushings the same size. Not sure if the OEM uppers are different diamter or thickness. If thickness, then I presume shims would have to be used. If just the diameter is different, guessing that the Energy Suspension kit fit in perfectly? What did you encounter? Should I be concerned using the ES kit instead of the OEM uppers?

3. If you did have to use shims, or reuse any existing shims, were the OEM one rotted out? Wondering if I need to have some on hand for the job. I see you had some on hand from the Lostar kit.

4. If I am only lifting the body enough to slip the upper mount out, how much lift do I need to do for the body from the frame? Guessing mabe one inch? And if that is all, do I really need to loosen any brake lines? The shop manual says nothing about brake line release. They do have a cryptic message about removing anything that could get hung up.

And then there is mention by Energy Suspension info for that kit, where they say to remove the front grill to remove "bolts at core support". Did you have to do that? Are they talking about Radiator core support? Since that kit fits a bunch of vehicles, does this apply to the H2? I ask all this since you did not mention that stuff above in your posts.

5. Last, and most importantly, I crawled under the vehicle today. I cannot find a single place on each side of the body to lift it safely with a jack. No space to place a piece of timber underneath to distribute the load. Just too many things in the way. How exactly did you lift the body with a floor jack without any damage or denting of the body floor pan? I am at a loss on how to do it. No safe spot to place a horizontal piece of wood couple of feet long. I searched. Am I approaching this completely wrong? What is the easiest way to lift the body without damage, and without an actual car hoist?

Thanks again. Hopefully all this info will help those who come behind us to do that work also.

BTW: The one body bolt I pulled out with an impact was so thin, I am surprised it did not snap. Not using an impact on the rest. Only hand ratchet.

 

finnall,

The zinc chromate ones are what I got when I ordered the black. Your just looking for the length, coating helps and they matched the 4" washers provided by Engergy. I used all the same Energy bushings without issue. My origninal ones didnt have shims of it it had them they were rusted a decade ago. I just cleaned up the steel cups after I pryed out the old rubber, wire wheeled them, quick acetone bath and shot them with Black refrigerator Epoxy. Let cure and used axel grease on the dicky and in the inside of the cup and put the bushing in. If you take the two 15mm bolts off the master cylinder to the hydroboost and pull it forward off the bolts you can take it up as much as you want. I had mine up 6". The reason I say to do that is your break lines are 20 years old. dont add stress to them unless you have to. their is no bleeding or anything to put the master cylinder back on the hydrobooster. They are two seperate closed loop systems. Their is a captured plunger that extends when you depress the brake on the hydro boost which engages the piston on the mastercylinder. thats the only contact the two have other than being bolted togather.