Anyone on this forum tackle the break booster replacement by any chance? Appears that ours is leaking from under the hood and also at the brake pedal, there is definitely a lot of play before the breaks are activated. Looks like another project along with replacing the steering box.

cheers and happy thanksgiving.

 

it is pretty straight forward to replace. you might curse a bit when you get to the nuts between the brake peddle and the gas peddle. the brake switch clip might also need a few words before it releases. i had just a drip from the area you posted the pic of and used AT-205 https://atpautomotive.com/re-seal added it to the power steering fluid. that stopped the leak for 2 years until i finally replaced the unit during an overhaul i had also replaced the steering pump and lines i left the steering box

 

Bronxteck suggestion of using ATP/s AT-205 is an excellent one, for a few bucks you might totally resolve the deteriorated seal and stop the leak. If it doesn't work you will at least buy yourself some time before you have to replace the hydroboost unit. (which isn't cheap)

If you find out this does not solve your lead consider and you plan on keeping your H2 long term then just buy a NEW AC/Delco unit and not a rebuilt one (unless you like doing stuff more then once) Another options is check out A-Team performance they sell a seal kit if you wish to try your luck trying to replace the leaking seal. I have done this myself and bought about a year before I said screw it and just bought a new one, many times its not just the O-ring thats the problem but excessive bore wear where the piston travels and replacing the O ring will just buy you some time.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I will give it a try until I order the parts. Also, question regarding the booster part, is it safe to install a refurbished part or go with the GM brand which is close to $500 bucks? Same with the power steering gearbox, those get to be pretty expensive.

 

IMO just go with a new unit, I am sure other's here would agree with me. And while it is true a new unit is more expensive but you will install and be done with it for the life of the vehicle. Many on this forum have gone with the re-manufactured unit just to have issues with leaks within a few months.

As I see it, the big issue is that re-builders (like Cardone) are not boring or re-finishing where the piston travels and then using oversized pistons an o-rings, most of the time they are just installing a slightly larger "O" ring. Unfortunately when the bore of the cylinder has been damaged from pitting/rust the unit then just leaks after the new O ring gets torn up from riding over the damaged area. Resulting in a short time fix. Then you end up having to take it back out, just to have to return the leaky rebuilt unit just to start the process over again. I had a friend who had a one go out on his Dodge pickup and ended out having to go thru 3 rebuilt units before finding one that didn't leak within a few months.

Granted the removal and re-installation of the hydroboost unit is not that difficult with the proper tools and if you limber enough to get yourself under the dash to remove the nuts and brake switch clip. Just make sure if you do try the rebuild unit that it comes with a warranty that you can easily take advantage of (without having to box up and send back the part for a replacement) and finally, make sure the replacement is an EXACT match for the old one.

 

i personally bit the bullet and purchased an OEM unit from rock auto. why do you think you need a gearbox?

 

Similar here..... just bite the bullet and get a brand new one. I pulled mine and rebuilt it myself. Lasted about 6 months before it started leaking and giving me problems again. After seeing so many on here as well as the various GM truck and SUV forums having to replace rebuilt ones I just went with brand new and not a problem since. And yeah - the brake pedal clip and inside bolts are a pain but doable. Wobble extensions for your ratchet will help greatly....

 

gearbox is going out. Original with 432k miles on the truck. That box definitely needs to be replaced for safety reasons (very rusted, has some small leaks, new lines installed, lots of play in the steering column even after I adjusted it a few times). I wish I didn’t have to replace it but it is what it is.

 

the intermediate steering shafts can cause a lot of excessive play at the unions. there is an upper one and a lower one. you can check them for play or disconnect it at the box and see if they have play individually test the nub at the box then have someone hold the steering wheel and check the intermediate shaft universals i will war do not spin the steering wheel when it is disconnected from the gearbox you can lose count of the rotations and direction and damage the clock spring . there is also a plastic bushing in the steering column that wears. but is a pain in the *** to replace. it will eat knuckles and blood just looking at it. the new replacement can sometimes be just a tad oversized and not slip right in like the original installed one. maybe its meant to be put on having the column removed and on a bench idk? problem with that is once again the clock spring can easily get damaged when the steering wheel spins freely