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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 01:32 PM
  #21  
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i meant new t case !!
i read somewhere how to test motor position, here or ? another forum?
 
Old Oct 8, 2016 | 02:37 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by happythree
i meant new t case !!
i read somewhere how to test motor position, here or ? another forum?
How do you test the transfer case to see if it's working properly?
 
Old Oct 8, 2016 | 03:28 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by happythree
oh! did you try shifting to 4hi? you need to be in lock to move in 2wd. in 4 hi you should not move. it would chech the t case. also try 4 lo .
see if t case motor does anything.
at least you know the front diff is ok.
right now, you are in hi lock. you can move..
if you go to 4 hi open you should not move.
if you go to lo lock you move in LOW range.
that would tell you the t case is shifting normal.

it seem like you are stuck in 4 hi lock regardless of the button you push.
 
Old Oct 8, 2016 | 03:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by happythree
right now, you are in hi lock. you can move..
if you go to 4 hi open you should not move.
if you go to lo lock you move in LOW range.
that would tell you the t case is shifting normal.

it seem like you are stuck in 4 hi lock regardless of the button you push.
Yeah you are right. I just tested that out. Started in 4 hi lock, moved fine, went to 4 hi regular, did not hear any noise that the t case shifted and when the light went to 4 hi regular the car still moved. Then tried going to 4 low lock, made a large clunk noise and still moved.
 
Old Oct 8, 2016 | 07:11 PM
  #25  
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now u got it!
 
Old Oct 10, 2016 | 10:37 AM
  #26  
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One more time, take it back to the m'fer who screwed the t-case up and make them fix it.
 
Old Oct 18, 2016 | 10:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TAINTER
One more time, take it back to the m'fer who screwed the t-case up and make them fix it.
The guy wants $1,500 to repair it even though he clearly caused the problem. I really don't want anything to do with this guy and we did come to an agreement about a refund.
 
Old Oct 18, 2016 | 10:38 AM
  #28  
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Update: Going to be getting a significant refund from the first shop who clearly caused the problem. As of now, the front drive shaft is still off and drives perfect, no issues whatsoever. I will be seeing if buying a used t case is worth than having the current one repaired for $2,200. I will also be going to different shops to compare prices for repair.

But, the only thing different I noticed is that idling is extremely rough without the front drive shaft and the transfer case being (stuck) in 4 hi lock. Is that normal? Before I removed the drive shaft the idling was very smooth.
 
Old Oct 18, 2016 | 11:21 AM
  #29  
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in neutral, no difference.
 
Old Oct 20, 2016 | 08:58 AM
  #30  
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Went ahead and purchased 24247591 which is a new t case assembly from GM
 



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