Actually, it's not leveled correctly unless it's done with the sway bar links disconnected first and the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Even then, a few test drives are necessary and then re-checked to ensure the suspension wasn't loaded when it was stopped. Doing this a couple of times with sway bars discoconnected is the right way to get them level.

I found my H2 was almost an inch and a half higher on one side, after disconnecting the sway bar links. It drives noticably better after adjusting TBs with them disconnected and then an alignment afterwards

 

Thanks for the correction TOMP. This is another one of those issues that pop up every other month and it seems like everyone has their own idea on how to do it. (No offense Doc Olds). I personally subscribe to the "jack up and tweak" theory then drive and tweak again until it's right. Tomp also made a VERY good point too, the ground where you'reparked has to be level or you won't get good measurements.

 

I agree about the level surface, usually do it on the top floor of a parking garage at work. How do you disengage sway bars on the h3 and is it safe to drive around like that?

 

It's not really safe to be driving around like that especially without a "real" front axle, sway bar disconnects (found on Dodge and Jeep Vehicles) are for off roading only. I believe Tomp was referring to disconnecting them for the leveling process.

 

so what's the best route to go when leveling...raise the truck or don't raise the truck?

does the 2.5 turn theory change for an alpha?

how about the sway bar comment? do i need to consider this as well?

i'm feeling adventureous, so i may given this a go tomorrow.

oh yeah, what about the shocks included in the adv pkg? do they have a little more travel than the stock base shocks? or do i still need to consider replacing?

 

Holy shlt! Dave is gonna mod his truck ! ! ! !

 

[sm=funnypostabove.gif]

 

I'll probably see just how funny it is when my large @ss is dangling over some crazy high precipice on the side of Barnwell Mountain someday and Dave goes: "Hey Dude, remember all those smart @ss comments you made on the forum? Let's see how effective strapping yourself to thin air will be".....

 

There's really no right or wrong way. Guys who have done it both ways have come up with the same result. You can't hurt it just by tweaking the T-Bars, just keep measuring until you get it where you want it. After you're done, take it to a front end shop and get your alinement set so you don't trash your front tyres.

 

OK this has probably been answered a ton of times already but,here goes, we used a Readylift kit to raise mine, we actually got it to raise nearly 3" (2.85") so it is 8.5 all around, in a week or so it'll most likely settle some, does it have to be jacked up every time we adjust it,or can it be cranked on some with it on the ground. I've also heard a ton about the ride changing, mine seems to be fine, I'm assuming this is because of the shock spacers provided in the kit, basically from what I heard, read and now experienced Readylift is a great kit, you can get thenpretty inexpensive on eBay, I paid 140.00 for mine but have seen them go for as little as 60.00, and I'm talking about Readylift brand, not e knock off, the main thing I wanted aside from experience of Readylift, was the shock spacers, again, from what I've read and heard the offset to the shock caused by the lift, is what throws the stock ride off.

Readylift keyways are Giant meaty keyways, while they are the same size as stock in some ways there are some differences, these are solid, whereas the OEM has a lot of indents taking away from the strength. The instructions could have been a little better, and it seems they’re outdated it tells you to match the Readylift keyway with your stock keyway as they are right and left, truth is they are no longer right and left, the keyway goes all the way through, so it doesn’t matter which side the torsion bar enters the keyway. The trick is, and this isn’t explained in the instructions, set the torsion bar in the keyway leaving a giant gap between the end of the keyway and the frame, then set the other end of the torsion bar in nearest the lower control arm end, now when you tighten the bolt on the keyway it will pull the keyway down closing the gap between the keyway and the frame, this same action pushes the lower control arm down and the front of the truck up. The fact that the keyway can be used on either side makes it easier to install, that the torque accumulated by the force from the weight of the truck and the torsion bar will keep everything in place, in all honesty if we had better instructions this would have taken us about 30 to 45 minutes to do both sides, the instructions didn’t mention we would need a gear puller to get the old keys off, I learned that here somewhere. Funny story about our trial and error process, when we 1st installed the keyways, and took them off the jack stands the front end dropped, it was like we put a lowering kit on, we jacked it up and switched them, there was no difference, so we played with it until we figured it out, better instructions may have helped avoid that, I’m a retired police detective, so I don’t know much about raising or lowering cars, but with a little detecting lol we figured it out, my point being if I can do it, anyone can do it, and if you want a guaranteed factory ride with a higher front end this worked for me. There is another seller on eBay offering a Readylift knockoff for around $90, I think he had spacers, and from his listing it seemed as if it may be the same quality as ReadyLift, I know they are using the same instructions, because I followed the links, so check’em out as long as they have the shock spacers they should be pretty good, I don’t work for ReadyLift I only recommend them because I use their product and it worked well.

One other thing I got a nice set of smoked side markers lights on eBay for 19.99 free shipping, which is pretty good because most sellers want 35 to 45 for the same thing and they charge extra for shipping, I got my set in about 3 days, they took some time to install because you have to take the fender well out to get to the light, I could have popped the old ones out but with the fender being fiberglass I didn’t want to risk cracking the fender so I took the front wheel off, removed all the fasteners for the fender well, let it drop some, reach in with pliers to remove the old marker then popped the new markers into place, re-installed all the fender well fasteners, put the tire back on and was all done both sides in about 30 to 45 minutes, both this project and the Readylift took about the same amount of time.

Real quick before I stop writing this time, I bought a new jack from Craftsman that has the jack stands built into it, basically you jack the car up, flip a switch and pull the jack out leaving the stand there, put the second stand on the jack, jack the other side up and leave the stand under that side too, then if you still need another jack, insert the included lift plate and you still have a jack to work with. This jack list for $299.99 but is often on sale for $99.00this thing is a real time saver, most that reviewed it said they wished it had extra stands, or that you could be extra stands, the fact is at 99.00 you could buy two for less than the price of one off sale and have all four stands with a back up jack. I don’t remember what they call the jack and am too lazy to go check, but they only have one like it. It is worth looking into, if you get one read the instructions, there is more to it than you might think, and trying to get the jack out leaving the stand requres knowing how to work the switches... it is a cool tool




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