Originally Posted by SandMan799

Re: two types of bose? "lux" and "Nonlux"?
I don't know if this will help you, but I read this(I know its long, but has some good information):

Now i finally found all of this info after weeks of searching, and i wanted to present this research to everyone: Hope this clears some things up...

Nav part numbers:

Newest revision LUX TNR (15800001)
Second Revision LUX TNR (15230099)
First Revision LUX TNR (10377531)

Newest revision NON-LUX TNR (15800000)
second Revision NON-LUX TNR (10379287)
First Revision NON-LUX TNR (10377287)
Alt. Revision NON-LUX TNR (15120706)

Newest Revision LUX INR (15204335)
First Revision LUX INR (5204334)
Newest Revision NON-LUX INR (15108241)

NON-BOSE TNR (trucks with UQ3/UQ5 non-Bose audio) (15811289)

LUX Amplifier numbers: (all are identical in function, they just have different part numbers)

15199992
15114445
15114454
15191601
15112662
15199884

Nav Antennas

First revision antenna (15207447)
Latest revision antenna (15135178)

LUX vs. NON-LUX
(Thanks to DURAtotheMAX from The Diesel Place)

Here is exactly how the NON-LUX and LUX amps differ and why the LUX amp sounds better than the premium amp. Sorry for my long
winded explanation...i sort of got carried away (this is the
explanation I sent to another guy that was interested in the lux amp
conversion too...except he did only the LUX amp...no TNR)!!!
So normally in an after market amp/speaker system, you have a head
unit (the radio), an amp, and speakers. The head unit sends a "low
level" signal to the amp. This low level signal varies in output
"slightly" as the volume **** is turned up or down. The amp takes this
signal and greatly amplifies it and sends the high-power, high level
signal to the speakers. When you turn up the volume ****, the "low
level" signal gets slightly more powerful and the amp then amplifies
this and you hear it as "louder sound". Follow me? If I get too
confusing at any point, just PM me or email me!! The amp also has an "amp turn
on" wire which is basically a power wire from the head unit so when
the head unit turns on, it tells the amp to turn on. Kinda like a
relay. The Bose "Premium" system works on this exact same principal.
We kinda refer to the Bose Premium amp/system as the "dumb amp",
because thats basically what it is. It sits there just like a fool and
just "makes louder" whatever is thrown at it. It does not know what it
is attached to and has no interaction with the car at all (you could
hook it up to a telephone for all it cares). This is probably where it
loses quality. The wires from the head unit probably pick up a lot of
interference because GM doesn't think and they just bundle the thin
wires right along side electrical wires etc... The stronger the audio
signal passing through the wires, the more suseptable the signal is too
interference. So, technically, the more you increase the volume, the
more interference the wires pick up. Also, you have to think about
that the "dumb" amp's "volume" (called 'gain') is always cranked to
the MAX, so when you vary the "output" from the radio, you can get a
full volume range from quiet to really loud. If the Dumb Amp's gain
was not turned up all the way, than the system would not go loud even
if you turned up the radio all the way. Follow me? Its like if you
have a water hose hooked up to a faucet and on the end of the hose you
have a variable water valve. Think of the faucet's **** as the volume
**** on the radio. And think of that valve on the end of the hose as
the "gain" control on the dumb amp. Now, if you only opened up the
valve on the end of the hose a little bit, not a lot of water will
come out no matter how wide open you turn the faucet's ****. SO... the
valve at the end of the hose has to be wide open all the time in order
for you to be able to control it (the volume/water flow) at the
faucet's (radio's) ****. This is a disadvantage because on cheaper
quality amplifiers (which the 'dumb amp' is), when the gain is cranked
up all the way, you introduce lots of distortion and quality loss even
tho the volume is not up all the way. That is why the 'dumb amp' does
not sound all that great (and like a Bose system should!!!

NOW... The lux amp works completely differently.
It is a "smart amp" in that is has a full on-board computer and DSP
(digital signal/sound processor). It is fully integrated with the
vehicle in that it communicates with everything in the vehicle over
the Class II data bus. (like a computer LAN) Now.. the head unit in
"LUX" vehicles sends a VERY low level constant signal to the amp that
does NOT change. Even when you turn the volume and play with the
fader/balance. The head unit does NOTHING to audio. It does not apply
bass or treble changes, it doesn't fade/balance it, nothing!! It just
sends a constant low level left and right (it doesn't send rear
signals) audio signal to the amp. The amp receives this and the amp's
DSP "optimizes" the sound to do whatever Bose does to it etc.. AND the
amp constantly talks to the head unit over the Class II data bus to
receive volume, fader, balance, bass, treble and mid-range
information. So, when you turn the volume **** up in a LUX vehicle,
you are not simply increasing the output of the low-level signal from
the head unit. You are sending a signal directly to the LUX amp that
says "hey turn up the volume a bit". And then the amp just increases
the output level to the speakers. Same thing with the fader, because
remember the head unit does not output separate "rear" channels. The
amp is smart enough to "make up" a rear channel (for the rear
speakers) based on the fader setting that the radio is sending it over
the Class II network. its really pretty cool how it all works! Same
thing with Bass and treble too. You press some buttons on the radio to
increase the bass and the radio says to the amp "hey, adjust your EQ
for some more bass". Running the LUX amp this way keeps the audio
signals coming from the radio at a constant low level so not a lot of
interference can come in from power wires running along side... Also,
think back to my "water faucet/hose" analogy. Its like instead of
keeping the end valve wide open and controlling flow with the faucet's
****, you are doing the opposite. You are keeping the audio signal low
and constant while just controlling actual volume of the music with
the "gain" control on the LUX amp. AND thats why the LUX amp sounds
50 times better than the Premium, or DUMB amp!! Another nice thing
about the LUX amp is that it does not need an "amp turn on" wire or
anything because that is all done with Class II data. And you can
program a LUX amp for which vehicle it is in and it will alter the
sound processing sequences to make the sound perfect for the size
cabin it is in! (for example, it is going to have to be programmed
differently if it is in a huge cabin Escalade ESV versus a smaller
extended cab Sierra Denali (thats the only truck that gets a lux amp
from the factory...if you dont count the Escalade EXT as a truck)
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