Replaced 'non serviceable' inst cluster lights, but need needle help
OK, for those with burned out bulbs behind their instrument cluster- you have likely found out that the bulbs can not be ordered as they are hard soldered in, not in sockets. 2 options were: buy a newcluster -or- figure out someting yourself (which I have done...)
First... do this at your own risk. If you have never soldered, this would not be the time to learn.
What you need are replacement bulbs, which can be bought from Radioshack - part number 272-1141 ($1.29 ea) these are 12v 25ma bulbs (they also have a 50-60ma bulb, so make sure you get the right one).
All you do is unsolder the old light (pull up on it slightly to extend the legs, then put the tip of the hot soldering iton on the solder pad and pull up slightly on that side to release 1/2 of the bulb, then do the same with the other side. There are 4 solder pads, so just make sure you use the same 2. Then, trim the wire leads pretty short (you may need to cut the hard clear plastic guard down if it is too long), strip the ends and solder the bulb in. There are no markings, so I matched visually the direction of the large part of the filament and installed that way with no problems.
Now, for the HELP part...
Can someone take me a picture of their instrument cluster withtheH2not running, but the key turned to the first notch (i.e. electrical power on the vehicle but not started)? I need it straight on, not at an angle so that I can recalibrate my needles. The 'auto calibration' when I plugged in the harness left a couple slightly off. No big deal, but I know that it is wrong so it bugs me.
**CAUTION - if you are removing your own needles you need to be VERY careful. When I removed mine I put each one at the 'middle' reading and then removed. This let me get REAL close when I reinstalled but not exactly. Pull up using steady force. Any side loads may bend the needle pins and cause you to need a new cluster. They reinstall by simply matching the position of removal, and gentle force STRAIGHT down.
First... do this at your own risk. If you have never soldered, this would not be the time to learn.
What you need are replacement bulbs, which can be bought from Radioshack - part number 272-1141 ($1.29 ea) these are 12v 25ma bulbs (they also have a 50-60ma bulb, so make sure you get the right one).
All you do is unsolder the old light (pull up on it slightly to extend the legs, then put the tip of the hot soldering iton on the solder pad and pull up slightly on that side to release 1/2 of the bulb, then do the same with the other side. There are 4 solder pads, so just make sure you use the same 2. Then, trim the wire leads pretty short (you may need to cut the hard clear plastic guard down if it is too long), strip the ends and solder the bulb in. There are no markings, so I matched visually the direction of the large part of the filament and installed that way with no problems.
Now, for the HELP part...
Can someone take me a picture of their instrument cluster withtheH2not running, but the key turned to the first notch (i.e. electrical power on the vehicle but not started)? I need it straight on, not at an angle so that I can recalibrate my needles. The 'auto calibration' when I plugged in the harness left a couple slightly off. No big deal, but I know that it is wrong so it bugs me.
**CAUTION - if you are removing your own needles you need to be VERY careful. When I removed mine I put each one at the 'middle' reading and then removed. This let me get REAL close when I reinstalled but not exactly. Pull up using steady force. Any side loads may bend the needle pins and cause you to need a new cluster. They reinstall by simply matching the position of removal, and gentle force STRAIGHT down.
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