When its 100 degrees outside, my truck runs about 215 on the highway after once its fully warmed up. It runs another 5-10 hotter around town in the same temperatures. Before the mod, it was within 2-3 degrees on the highway and about 225-230 around town. With this mod, air gets out quicker around town and I see the temps drop faster but once it is heat soaked its gonna stay hot. This is mostly from memory, I would have to check the old posts for exact numbers, I have done one or two things to the cooling system like an e-fan and thermostat housing mod since then.

 

OK, time for the old reality check.

Hood vents accomplish about nothing, accept for the ability to pull over road side and slow cook some weenies on top of the vent, so please use BBQ grate whenever possible.

You all understand that we are talking about a water cooled motor, designed to operate within an engineered heat range for emissions and fuel efficiency, controlled by a thermostat and clutch fan for forced air movement through the radiator. It does not matter how hot it is or you think it is under the hood. I am referring to the stock set up, an Efan can provide greater control when tied to the PCM.

I posted a whole bunch of this and more in the last thread or so that came up on this topic. Like, a motor vehicle with its hood off actually runs hotter than one with its hood properly in place.... because.... it reduced airflow through the radiator (where the cooling takes place). Along with the possible negatives of creating a venturi effect in the wrong location... blah blah blah. About the only way to actually make a "functioning hood vent" is to have one that can open and close (preferably weather tight) when the operator chooses under certain limited circumstances, and place it at the rear of the hood.

Anyways, you guys have fun and carry on.

 

Exactly... as I pointed out earlier in this thread, if you absolutely HAD to run the engine a few degrees cooler, then improving the throughput of the cooling system itself is the way to achieve that... e.g., higher capacity radiator, water pump, etc.

 

doc has it on the nose. they are made to run hot.
last year i charted time running and temp on a hot day with an obd2 device reading temp.
its here ?somewhere.!

i put a blanket over the grill and had a hard time getting 205 at idle on my driveway.

you guys spend way too much time worrying about temps in most of the country, and i doubt that 160 is a good idea and if what the others say is true it will go above that anyway??

heat soak, just pop the hood when you park!

when it opens the temp goes down or stabilizes there, the tstat gets it UP to 195 where it wants to be.

 

Yeah, and some trucks just run hotter than others. My wife's H3 consistently runs 205 where mine runs much hotter. I would be happy with that normal range of 210-215 everywhere but when I started seeing 230-235 around town in summer something needs to happen.

 

Seems crazy to me to hear of engines running at temps above boiling. How does that happen? And Luovers aren't going to cool anything down. You have to force air across a surface to air cool. I wish I had an alpha. That power plant is tried and true.

 

Water alone in an open pot (no pressurized lid) boils at 212F.
A 50/50 mix of water and coolant in an open pot boils at 222F.
Pressurize the pot (radiator) to 15PSI, raises the boil point another 45F to 267F.
Pull air through the radiator and you can easily run 270F w/o a boil over.