Hey guys I have a popping noise in my front suspension somewhere. It sounds like the drivers side. It dosnt really do it over really big bumps it's more like the slight bumps you barely feel. I do have it leveled to 23" with 35"s and rancho extended shocks. Not offroaded but on the beach about 3 times. Has 58800 miles. 07 lux offroad I5

 

Seems to be a little worse or more often when the wheel is turned slightly, like just touching it a little to the left. More so turned to the left rather than the right

 

Does it only make the noise when your driving it down the road?

 

 

Anyone know about how much that will cost? Any way to get a stronger one? Always had toyotas and have never had an issue with cv joints

 

try jacking the hummer up, putting on jack stands and gab the wheel and try rocking it up and down and left to right, if it's in the suspension you get some play in it and should be able to seevwhat is physically moving, you may have to put soe muscle into it. if nothing moves I'd guess a baring in the cv shaft, but it's most likely a ball joint going into the knuckle, either tie rod, sway bar, etc

 

Found the culprit. It turns out that the sway bar linkage right at the bottom of the shock is popping. Seems that when the weight shifts to the drivers side it makes the bolt holding it on the passenger gets loose but when the weight is even it is tight ? Going to try and tighten it tomorrow but anyone have any ideas of what could cause this ?

 

It could be it became loose after cranking the tbars and has worn in the hole while loose. That should be detectable if you remove that lower bolt. It could also be the joint is worn.
Cranking the tbars changes the travel and can exert different forces on those components. Same thing effects the shocks.
It goes way back to discussions of topping out the shocks after cranking it up without extending the old ones or getting longer ones.
One solution would be replace it but it could again get jerked loose or buy some Curries that are adjustable and heavier.
That's my quick guess.

I came up with a way to extend the top of the oem shock until I got longer ones and added limiting straps to stop travel before striking the upper metal stop. Notice the 1//2 nut under the top mounting washer. It's too large to screw on but is 1/2 tall.


I have custom tie rods but I raised the ends of my anti-sway bar this way so everything would clear after lifting and adding the new tie rods.

There are variables but at some point if your OEM links are cocked up to the limit at full droop it is only a matter of time until they fail.
Like if you do this very often.