No there isn't another layer. You must be talking about the rust remover I sprayed on it before I took the pic. I'm painting it today and wanted to do minimal sanding. Also the "bubbles" above the folded area aren't paint bubbles (at least I don't think so). If I touch that area it doesn't feel like pain bubbled up, it feels like the metal is raised behind it. I can't push in the bubble like a paint bubble. Also the bubble looks a lot bigger in the pic than in person.

 

if theres a bump on flat metal its the rust behind it expanding and pushing it out. scratch off the outer layer to see the rust. you can usually scrape it off with a screwdriver.
when you're at that point its a problem as old as cars from the modle "t" on till today.
eventually they all rust away and go to the junk yard. its the life cycle.
if you deny it and paint over it a few times you are contributing to to process.
it never really goes away

remember the old bumper sticker,"rust happens"!! well it was close.
yrs ago some parts stores sold metal replacements. about 4 in wide with a "j"bend on the bottom. you cut it to size and epoxied it on.
a few years later when they rusted, you bought a bigger piece and,,,well you know.
my 74 econoline had a lot of those. i sold it in ? 94 i think!

oh,remember,its an inside job. what you do on the outside is just hiding the cancer,a delaying tactic.

 

Dr. Tom,

The reason I'm painting it is b/c mine is only a 2010. It's been through 2 winters and has less than 20,000 miles on it. That doesn't seem right, does it? I realize rust happens but this is only on one door where other people have this issue so hopefully some new paint will help the issue. What do you suggest I do? Just leave it rust away? And also I am not just painting over it. I had to sand down the whole bottom "flap" to metal to ensure I got all the rust then primed it, painted, and clear coated it. That should take care of it for at least another 20,000 miles and it only cost me about $20 for the paint. Well worth it and better than letting it rust away.

 

you are not thinking or paying attention!1. ive done all this dozens of times. if you dont spray SOMETHING INSIDE you cant slow it down.

but dont believe me. dont listen to any advice i give,FROM DIRECT EXPERIENCE!
instead, go ask any legitimate body shop how they would fix it.

tell them some idiot is trying to tell you,,,rust starts on the inside, what a joke!!!

 

Ahhh ... I see. You're right, I wasn't paying attention. So you use In-Force. Is that what you would recommend?

 

POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks
jvorpahl

 

That POR15 IS amazing stuff! I used it on my rusting tow hook bolts, but I don't know how you'd get it in the doors. You'd have to make sure you don't clog the drain holes. That's going to be the trick with anything you use that's not some kind of spray lube like tom is talking about.

 

finally!!! i knew what to do,,,just didnt know what to use!

the rear hatch is accessable thru the jack opening. the other doors may need to be opened up. those tiny drains could be opened up a bit with a pick b4 the treatment to be sure they stay open
im lookin at the stuff!,,,ahead of time


reading, sounds tooo good.
ya know ive already been UNDER my new 10 where all weld spots showed rust, the month i bought it.

 

Here's a tip.....POR 15 is a 3 part process, 1: 'Marine Clean' to degrease, 2: 'Prep & Ready', etches a zinc coat for the 'POR 15' to adhere to, 3: POR 15. I learned the hard way that if you don't follow the procedure, it'll eventually peel off. After stripping and redoing, it worked great. Going through all 3 steps inside the door panel is going to be tricky!

 

I was just going to post that about the 3 step process. How in the world would that work inside the doors. It'd be hard enough to pain inside the door but to spray and clean would be impossible. What if I re-finished the bottom inch of the doors w/a base coat or 2 of POR-15 and then primer (would this even be needed) and then paint and clear coat. Would this prevent the rust from coming around from inside and bubling up the paint and do you think it'd be noticible that that the POR-15 is under the paint?