i know that with the mopars, if you have a slant 6 or small block car, and you want to go to a big block, all you have to do is bolt/weld in an "elephant ear", more commonly known as an engine mounting plate...i would imagine that the same is true of the GMs?

 

I would imagine so....I never had to go from a SB to a BB. The only time I ever went bigger on motor was going from the 305 in my 84 TA to a 350, but that was a pretty easy swap. Sure I would have loved to throw a 454 in everything I own...but that would take cash I never had

 

Sure sure, I see how you guys are now. Ignore the old fart [(dudes and dudette), I am not yet 50, let's not go about how close], then when ya needsome info, where is that butler dude..................Doc sumtin........ Yeah 403OLDSMOBILE.... Solid motor, not exactly the power house of its time. However, I've known some guys that have built that block to make a surprising amount of power, like lifting one front tire 8-10" off the ground,slicks of course.

Patrick, great idea. The Mike HummerGuy Firechicken!!!! Cool

 

the old 403 had the oil spout sticking out of the front of the motor, right? Or am I thinking of a different motor?

 

Yeah, that'd be the Olds. Easy fill mentality. Where is that today? Some cars are ok, man others get the flexo funnel?????

 

there was one import motor that I worked on where you had to fill the oil through the dipstick hole...that was the worst design I have ever seen....don't know if it came that way from the factory or what...but that sucked.

The h3 has a really nice easy to access filler hole...and the hole is nice and big too. I was happy when I popped the hood

 

Here are some pics he took of the chasis this weekend. Do you guys think it's a lost cause?

 

damn, did he park that thing in the ocean? or has it seen lots of salt covered roads? that looks like an awful lot of work to feel confident. but, if you've got the time, why not.

 

damn....you're better off stripping that thing down to bare frame and sandblast all the parts...thats really the only way to know whats good and whats not....there can be a lot of stress cracks hidden under that rust!

 

that looks to be a full frame car?

the nice thing, if that is the case, is similar with the older mopars, and trucks...frame rust can be blasted away and reinforcements can be welded in...and as for rough spots in the trunk of floor, i know that at events like the mopar nationals, you can buy brand new weld in floor pans, that basically replace the entire floor. the gas tank can be as rusty as possible, and it doesnt matter...i would replace that anyway. that amount of rust is probably also why there are no brakes...as the metal brake lines are pinned to the chassis, and if the chassis is that rusty, the lines probably are as well..

however, rusty and rotted are two different things. if its just flaky rust on the surface, its not a big deal, so long as its not rotted clean through the structural points, such as the frame, the k member, etc. even if there are VERY bad spots in the frame, you can weld in reinforcements. on my white car, the unibody was getting bad up around the front wheels, and with the added stress of drag racing, it was bend the car in half..so we had to weld in reinforcements.

and example of rotted versus rusty...we had been looking for a winter beater that would get better mileage than our trucks, so we had been looking at early neons, or shadows...we looked at one shadow, and the guy told me that there was some chassis rust, but nothing serious. i crawled under the back end, and the chassis was SO rotted, that when i tried to lift myself by the rear bumper supports, it ripped about a 10 inch section of the frame out. i didnt buy the car...if it wont support 220lbs, what would happen if it gets hit from behind? [:'(]