Need tire pressure help. My first car
#12
The only way the spare is in the monitored 4 is if it was once on the ground and then rotated into the spare position, of if somebody re-programmed which 4 TPMS are being monitored.
So put whatever you want in the 4 on the ground, all the exact same PSI COLD. If you want to see if the spare is one of the 4 in the monitored loop, let out a bunch of air and see if the TPMS light come on in the DIC.
The light is supposed to kick on if it senses a 10%+ drop in any one of the monitored tires.
#13
There are other better intake and filter choices out there, do some searching here or on the web.
Forget the chip idea, search PCMforless.com, and get a PCM tune, chose your own parameters from their order sheet.
#14
Stick with your paper element filter or a dry filter of your choice.
Your MAF will thank you for it.
On the LSx site I belong to there is plenty of REAL dyno proof that the gains from the K&N are false claims (google it),, with real time gains only showing ~1 whp.
$80-$100+ for the K&N setup for only a 1-2 hp gain if you're lucky = a racket..
It also has been proven to allow far too many particulates into your motor oil as per professional UOAs'. (used oil analysis).
Higher oil particulates = higher engine wear over the life of any internal combustion engine.
IIRC AMSOIL makes great filter elements..
They also have boat loads of data on just that subject, as they used to sponsor the LSx site I belong to.
The suject has been covered more than a million times there..lol
Your MAF will thank you for it.
On the LSx site I belong to there is plenty of REAL dyno proof that the gains from the K&N are false claims (google it),, with real time gains only showing ~1 whp.
$80-$100+ for the K&N setup for only a 1-2 hp gain if you're lucky = a racket..
It also has been proven to allow far too many particulates into your motor oil as per professional UOAs'. (used oil analysis).
Higher oil particulates = higher engine wear over the life of any internal combustion engine.
IIRC AMSOIL makes great filter elements..
They also have boat loads of data on just that subject, as they used to sponsor the LSx site I belong to.
The suject has been covered more than a million times there..lol
Last edited by Smittro; 08-16-2012 at 01:22 PM.
#16
Re tyre pressures... higher pressure (eg 38-40) will give better fuel economy, but your stopping distances in an emergency won't be as good as a slightly lower pressure.
In the same way you air down in sand to increase the tyre's footprint, being aired up too much on the road decreases the contact with the road hence reducing ability to brake hard... it won't matter too much on normal use (you don't brake hard right?) but might be a factor if you have to stop in an emergency. The door sticker on mine advises around 30 PSI I think, but I tend to go a bit higher to around 35.
In the same way you air down in sand to increase the tyre's footprint, being aired up too much on the road decreases the contact with the road hence reducing ability to brake hard... it won't matter too much on normal use (you don't brake hard right?) but might be a factor if you have to stop in an emergency. The door sticker on mine advises around 30 PSI I think, but I tend to go a bit higher to around 35.
#17
Thanks for the info on k&n. I will stay away from that. I looked at the pcmtune and you have to pay a core fee and send it in. And raJul are your tires the c rated ones or just the factory p's? I know what the placard says on the door but it just seems a little squishy is all.
Again thanks everyone. I thought there were all kinds of ppl on here with the duratrac? Or did everyone go with the 285's or e rated?
Again thanks everyone. I thought there were all kinds of ppl on here with the duratrac? Or did everyone go with the 285's or e rated?
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