Poor Performance after Motor Mount Replacement
All --
I have an 09 H3T with the 3.7l w/175k miles on it. I have not previously had any concerns about this engine at all. The only thing that I had was a check engine light that I recently cleared up by repairing an emission evap issue. I had the dealer replace the motor mounts and that has eliminated all of the vibration that I had, which is great. I thought that the check engine light I still had was just a hold over from the emission evap issue, so I used my scan tool to clear the code.
Now:
Is it likely that wires / hoses got crimped when the mechanic changed out the motor mounts? Any toher thoughts? I can usually handle one issue at a time, but it seems like five issues all came on at the same time.
HELP!
I have an 09 H3T with the 3.7l w/175k miles on it. I have not previously had any concerns about this engine at all. The only thing that I had was a check engine light that I recently cleared up by repairing an emission evap issue. I had the dealer replace the motor mounts and that has eliminated all of the vibration that I had, which is great. I thought that the check engine light I still had was just a hold over from the emission evap issue, so I used my scan tool to clear the code.
Now:
- The engine starts but runs really rough and chokes and coughs for the first minute or two.
- I can be running down the highway at speed -- so 55 to 75 -- and the engine will very significantly miss a beat / skip like it has lost gas /power.
- These events happen almost always / always on acceleration and last for ~1 second.
- The exhaust is throwing a fair amount of smoke.
- There is a cyclical ticking from under the truck from the engine and maybe from the exhaust / catalytic converter.
- If I am running down a flat road in drive I hear a ticking, but if I then put the truck in neutral and coast, the ticking goes away (regardless of whether or not I rev the engine); engine sounds fine.
Is it likely that wires / hoses got crimped when the mechanic changed out the motor mounts? Any toher thoughts? I can usually handle one issue at a time, but it seems like five issues all came on at the same time.
HELP!
What was the code you had and what did you do to address it. Scan it again and post any codes.
When was the last time you changed the Trans fluid and filter? Have you checked the CV joint at the back of the front drive shaft? How about checking the rest of the U Joints?
When was the last time you changed the Trans fluid and filter? Have you checked the CV joint at the back of the front drive shaft? How about checking the rest of the U Joints?
So, I took the truck in to the muffler shop yesterday. they told me that the catalytic converter was not clogged but that the engine had no oil. When the engine started running badly on Tuesday, I never thought to check the oil, as I had just topped it off / checked on it on Monday. I will keep checking it, but if the oil level goes down, where is the oil going? So, right now it is full of oil. It is running fine and is not misfiring / balking, but it is making a ticking noise like valves or timing chain. There is no discernable smoke coming out of the exhaust. There is a check engine light and I get two codes -- P0101 and P0102. Thoughts?
Easy stuff first.
1) Clean your MAF with MAF Cleaner
2) Confirm that the Intake Manifold fasteners are not loose and are correctly torqued to to 10 N.m/89 lb in. Note that is inch pounds, NOT Foot Pounds.
3.5) Make sure your intake is properly connected and clamps are snug.
3) When was the last time the Air Filter was changed, or serviced if a washable aftermarket type? Take a look at it when you clean the MAF, make sure it is properly seated. If dirty, replace or service.
4) Using your trust can of CRC Electronics Cleaner (that everybody with an older vehicle should have) clean the connector and connection side of the MAF with that, let dry, re-connect.
5) Inspect the wiring to the MAF for compromise/rubbing/frays or cracks ... as far back as you can follow it.
1) Clean your MAF with MAF Cleaner
2) Confirm that the Intake Manifold fasteners are not loose and are correctly torqued to to 10 N.m/89 lb in. Note that is inch pounds, NOT Foot Pounds.
3.5) Make sure your intake is properly connected and clamps are snug.
3) When was the last time the Air Filter was changed, or serviced if a washable aftermarket type? Take a look at it when you clean the MAF, make sure it is properly seated. If dirty, replace or service.
4) Using your trust can of CRC Electronics Cleaner (that everybody with an older vehicle should have) clean the connector and connection side of the MAF with that, let dry, re-connect.
5) Inspect the wiring to the MAF for compromise/rubbing/frays or cracks ... as far back as you can follow it.
So, I didn't think that 65 was old, but I guess I am getting old. I had taken out the MAF sensor so that I could reseal it with a better gasket. So I fixed the gasket for a tight seal but I put the sensor in backwards. I reoriented the sensor and it runs fine and all of the lights are off. Now I just have to see if the oil is leaking. I still have a timing chain / head click noise, but it goes away right over 1k RPM.
Follow Up --
So I do have an oil leak on the driver side of the engine. Changed the oil yesterday, drove 120 miles, parked the car in the drive overnight, and now I have a small puddle of oil. Didn't see it until late. It seems to be coming from the area where the dipstick enters the engine, though I have not pinpointed it yet. Valve cover gasket -- but if the checked the compression on each cylinder like they say they did, they probably would have seen oil there. Oil pressure sensor -- but I think that is on the passenger side of the engine? So crankshaft seal? Thoughts anyone?
Thanks,
JP.
So I do have an oil leak on the driver side of the engine. Changed the oil yesterday, drove 120 miles, parked the car in the drive overnight, and now I have a small puddle of oil. Didn't see it until late. It seems to be coming from the area where the dipstick enters the engine, though I have not pinpointed it yet. Valve cover gasket -- but if the checked the compression on each cylinder like they say they did, they probably would have seen oil there. Oil pressure sensor -- but I think that is on the passenger side of the engine? So crankshaft seal? Thoughts anyone?
Thanks,
JP.
Last edited by WeArePennState; Feb 15, 2026 at 09:57 PM.
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