Replaced factory Monsoon Sub-woofer!
Replaced factory Monsoon Sub-woofer!
Here's the rundown...
The factory Sub & rear speakers were pretty beat when I got my H3 so I finally swapped out the factory turd.
This is the Sub I used, & I highly recommend it, ROCKFORD FOSGATE P3SD2-8 PUNCH 8" SHALLOW SUBWOOFER 2 OHM
It's an 8" shallow sub made for small enclosures.
150w rms 300w peak, Dual 2ohm voice coils (just like factory)
Being dual 2ohm make it a snap to hook to factory wiring.
Literally, all I had to do was cut factory wires off @ sub terminals, Strip the factory wire about 1/4" and stuff them into the Rockford's Push lock terms.
DONE!!!
It actually took longer to remove the interior panels then swap the speaker.
Shipped to my door, the sub was under $100.
Hits harder, Hits lower, no noise or distortion. Factory was starting to make some funky noises.
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Few tips....
So you can get it all done the first time, lol.
Today was Rattle/Squeek fix day. I was In a hurry when I stuffed the Sub in so, now I got to do it correctly, lol.
1. Tighten all screws holding box together, 2-piece unit
2. Tighten Bolts holding Box to Chassis
3. Remove Factory Amp, cut a chunk of auto carpet in a square to insulate between box & amp, Retighten.
4. Stuff as much poly-fill in the area behind the amp as possible, make it tight. ( I had a rattle/resonance in the plastic box itself I could not get rid of any other way) Positive side note: Sub hits lower & harder!!!
Sounds better & I have no rattles!!!!!!
This Sub was a direct fit!!!! No Mods!!!! Just cut & strip factory wires.
As far as headunit I just swapped in an Alpine, My 3 didnt have the fancy Nav deck.
I'd give this a try before spending $500+ on a JL box, you might be surprised.
The factory Sub & rear speakers were pretty beat when I got my H3 so I finally swapped out the factory turd.
This is the Sub I used, & I highly recommend it, ROCKFORD FOSGATE P3SD2-8 PUNCH 8" SHALLOW SUBWOOFER 2 OHM
It's an 8" shallow sub made for small enclosures.
150w rms 300w peak, Dual 2ohm voice coils (just like factory)
Being dual 2ohm make it a snap to hook to factory wiring.
Literally, all I had to do was cut factory wires off @ sub terminals, Strip the factory wire about 1/4" and stuff them into the Rockford's Push lock terms.
DONE!!!
It actually took longer to remove the interior panels then swap the speaker.
Shipped to my door, the sub was under $100.
Hits harder, Hits lower, no noise or distortion. Factory was starting to make some funky noises.
------------------------------------
Few tips....
So you can get it all done the first time, lol.
Today was Rattle/Squeek fix day. I was In a hurry when I stuffed the Sub in so, now I got to do it correctly, lol.
1. Tighten all screws holding box together, 2-piece unit
2. Tighten Bolts holding Box to Chassis
3. Remove Factory Amp, cut a chunk of auto carpet in a square to insulate between box & amp, Retighten.
4. Stuff as much poly-fill in the area behind the amp as possible, make it tight. ( I had a rattle/resonance in the plastic box itself I could not get rid of any other way) Positive side note: Sub hits lower & harder!!!
Sounds better & I have no rattles!!!!!!
This Sub was a direct fit!!!! No Mods!!!! Just cut & strip factory wires.
As far as headunit I just swapped in an Alpine, My 3 didnt have the fancy Nav deck.
I'd give this a try before spending $500+ on a JL box, you might be surprised.
Factory Amp has a separate channel for each coil.
Hooked up EXACTALLY like stock.
Go heavy on the poly-fil, I've been messing with mine since install. I even carpeted the back of the sub-box to get rid of rattles & resonance from the plastic.
Night & day difference from the factory "Box O' Noise" I had, lol.
Night & day difference from the factory "Box O' Noise" I had, lol.