With the many, many posts regarding the same problem, and GM taking care of some and not others, I really think it's time for a class action suit against them to get relief. I have no idea how that gets going, but it's time folks. This is a manufactured fault, not necessarily a design fault, and they should pay to fix them.

Dave

 

08 3.7L Auto with guess what! Wait for it wait for it...... A cracked Radiator... Happened around 57k just riding it out til I cant stand putting fluid in it anymore.. Is there a new or improved version of this Radiator? Or Better yet, a company selling Aluminum Radiators so I dont have to deal with this again? Not really wanting to look at putting the factory part back in it. Well, mainly because..Its going to break again. I work too damn hard to make my $$ to keep replacing the same Factory part. If not one availble then i guess itll be time to start looking at a motor swap.....

 

Yep mine went around 58k as well (07 3.7L). I bought a factory replacement and put it in, but kept the old one. I figure I have ~50k more before this one goes... that gives me some time to find an all metal replacement. I kept the old one as a template to make sure that my all metal find is the right size.

 

Awesome.... Well, looks like itll be time to find one on the low low.. Who has em cheap boys? Gotta Service 4WD light on too that ive gotta get fixed. I know its that damn sensor in the rear axle. How much is that running at the steslership to get fixed?

 

I ended up shaving all the metal areas that is closest to the radiator. I ended up cutting back about 1/4". I did this at about 30K and I've been checking on it on every oil change... it has just passed 60k mark and no sign of radiator crack (knock on wood).

 

Well I have now experienced the dreaded "Hummer Cracked" radiator. My 07 Has only 59,000 and it just started to leak the other day. Since it was out of warranty awhile back I started having my Hummer serviced with BG Products. They make all sorts of additives for engine, transmission oil as well as coolant, brake, etc. The good thing about using these products is that if you use them as directed it covers any repair costs if something goes wrong.

I had my Hummer serviced with BG's coolant flush back in January and now only six months later my radiator cracks (not BG's fault, damn factory defect) anyway, my local service center called in the claim to BG and they are covering everything including labor, which would have been $780.00 out of my pocket.

Just wanted to get the word out to people that you may want to start using BG Products in your Hummer to give you a little piece of mind.

 

stylintrucks.com

OE Replacement Radiator (New) — 9589A Silla

$110.66+tax (& Free shipping with coupon code STBONUS at checkout)

2007-2009 Hummer H3 X; 5 Cyl 3.7L; "GAS, FI, Naturally Aspirated, VIN E"

Got mine in 1 day after ordering and it is well built, same weight as factory and I only needed to transfer the trans lines clips, ac condensor nuts, trans vent tube clamp, and rad cap. 1.5hrs labor and it is in like flynn...

 

I took the top bracket off and I took my large channellocks and squeezed over the top of the radiator support, pinching the lip that faces directly at the filler neck. I also found a brass nipple that fits over the radiator mount post and inside the bracket bushing, now my radiator dont move hardly at all. GM should make a revised bushing or bracket to fix. That is what I noticed before I inserted the brass bushing, is the radiator flops back and forth alot. Now it is tight.. maybe I could get a patent? some bling bling for my hummer...

 

I think the LAST thing you want is a rigid rad mount. let it float on the hoses and the rubber in the bracket. If it touches the metal,cut it back like the guy said he did.
Thats why these things get rubber mounts, vibration is a killer.

 

My rad still has the rubber "insulator" mount on top & 2 on the bottom... I put an insert in the top mount, rubber bushing still intact, to prevent the excessive travel. The radiator I took out with a crack in the upper tank, dont look like it was hitting any metal (where it cracked) instead it appears to be a stress crack. Plastic expands and retracts when hot or cold, I just think the amount of travel the radiator had at the top ONLY (lower side mounts are tight), caused too much flex on the upper tank, resulting in a stress crack... I'm thinking of fabricating more "bushing" mounts for both sides of the top.. Yes, the radiator needs rubber bushings to flex, but flex too much is NOT good at all.