Radiator and tranny cooler questions.
#11
Thx for ur answers Ordieh and Doc Olds. No, the temperature didn't get to the 3/4 mark. I panicked and turned off the A/C prior to that. lol. Will check for the seal above the radiator and the fan clutch. I didn't know the H3 had all those overheating protection mechanisms: cool.
Any explanation as to why the ambient air temp readings went up as well?
My check engine light came on this morning, so I will have to take the truck into the dealer for a checkup.
Any explanation as to why the ambient air temp readings went up as well?
My check engine light came on this morning, so I will have to take the truck into the dealer for a checkup.
#12
Thx for ur answers Ordieh and Doc Olds. No, the temperature didn't get to the 3/4 mark. I panicked and turned off the A/C prior to that. lol. Will check for the seal above the radiator and the fan clutch. I didn't know the H3 had all those overheating protection mechanisms: cool.
Any explanation as to why the ambient air temp readings went up as well?
My check engine light came on this morning, so I will have to take the truck into the dealer for a checkup.
Any explanation as to why the ambient air temp readings went up as well?
My check engine light came on this morning, so I will have to take the truck into the dealer for a checkup.
#13
One thing about a dealer is that they will tell you everything that's wrong, even imaginary things, lol. Anyhow, I was referred to a well respected private shop, so I am taking the Alpha there this Wednesday for an assessment. Will let you know what he finds. My check engine light is on, as is the "low tire pressure" warning.
#14
1) Be sure you have a good fan clutch. 2) Use a fresh/clean DEXCOOL mix. 3) Keep the "outside" of your radiator free of debris , mud etc. . 4) If you add the proper amount of PURPLE ICE, you will have zero corrosion and the coolant temp will remain measurably lower. 5) If you don't have the foam seal across the front of the top tank, add one. It ensures air flows through the radiator and not over it. Some H3's were shipped with the seal and some weren't. The GM # 15806298.
Where I live, it is not unusual for the summer ambient temperature to exceed 100. I have had zero problems on the trail or in stop and go traffic with either of my H3's. Also, both have the original radiators. I did use a dremmel to trim the tab that so often damages the front of the upper radiator tank.
Where I live, it is not unusual for the summer ambient temperature to exceed 100. I have had zero problems on the trail or in stop and go traffic with either of my H3's. Also, both have the original radiators. I did use a dremmel to trim the tab that so often damages the front of the upper radiator tank.
#15
I think I've seen/heard at least as many stories of H3 CSF radiator failures as I have of OEM H3 radiator failures, although I will admit that the CSF failures haven't typically resulted in a mixing of the fluids (that I've heard of anyway). Of course, neither have the majority of the OEM failures, either. My radiator failed just about a month and a half ago; split top tank, no fluid mix. I've got 145K miles, went with an OEM replacement.
#16
#17
Just to be clear, you didn't replace the OEM factory installed 25964054! My oem only lasted just over 5yrs(many others less). However, my $110.66, 8yr old, 9589A Silla, replacement is still sealed tight and haven't lost a drop of coolant. I did however make a mod to the upper mount: H3 Radiator
BTW, the mods you made were unnecessary on mine; there is less than 1/8" (at most) movement within the top mount, and the metal crossmember does not touch the radiator. Even the old (cracked) one shows absolutely no evidence of ever touching. I made sure to double check that after seeing lots of reports on it. In any case,the original lasted for 12 years and 145,000 miles...I think I'll take my chances on another.
Last edited by 650Hawk; 05-28-2020 at 02:55 PM.
#18
Actually, I did. This one. I had no confidence in any of the aftermarket radiators, especially the aluminum ones, so OEM was important to me. With the whole COVID thing going on, this was about the only OEM one I found at a (relatively) reasonable price that I could get in a short amount of time (3 days from order to delivery); I needed it back on the road asap.
BTW, the mods you made were unnecessary on mine; there is less than 1/8" (at most) movement within the top mount, and the metal crossmember does not touch the radiator. Even the old (cracked) one shows absolutely no evidence of ever touching. I made sure to double check that after seeing lots of reports on it. In any case,the original lasted for 12 years and 145,000 miles...I think I'll take my chances on another.
BTW, the mods you made were unnecessary on mine; there is less than 1/8" (at most) movement within the top mount, and the metal crossmember does not touch the radiator. Even the old (cracked) one shows absolutely no evidence of ever touching. I made sure to double check that after seeing lots of reports on it. In any case,the original lasted for 12 years and 145,000 miles...I think I'll take my chances on another.
My mod was on the upper mount, to prevent any movement/flex which caused the stress crack on the upper tank. With the insert, there is no movement, and outlasted the OEM.
#19
I saw your mod; there is so little movement in mine that I don't think I could even fit a sleeve in there like you installed. Maybe your rubber mount was worn? The little bit of movement in mine is strictly the "give" of the rubber. My bracket also appears to be slightly "flatter" than yours; perhaps shifting the radiator a bit farther away from the metal cross member. Or maybe the V8 is slightly different?
Last edited by 650Hawk; 05-28-2020 at 07:05 PM.
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