Question about Tire and wheels
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
Sounds like another 85-305. Didn't take anyones advise, knew everything and eventually was gone.
Yep, anyone who has wheeled with us knows how we like to "thrash" our rigs. Pretty much a point and mash the skinny pedal wheeler.
Not at all. Judicious use of the skinny pedal and proper lines can save many broken parts. I'm usually the first one to advise to back off the accelerator and try a different line. Although I do also believe that broken or damaged parts are sometimes part of tackling larger/harder obstacles. Once that happens, replace the part/parts with stronger better parts. I don't agree with the stronger half shafts argument. I prefer a "fuse" I can repair on the trail vs anything broken in my diff.
Still abide by the 315s on OEM rims will be just fine on your H3/H3T. Any idiot can break parts even with 265s on the paved road. Finesse is the key to longitivity of the IFS.
Yep, anyone who has wheeled with us knows how we like to "thrash" our rigs. Pretty much a point and mash the skinny pedal wheeler.
Not at all. Judicious use of the skinny pedal and proper lines can save many broken parts. I'm usually the first one to advise to back off the accelerator and try a different line. Although I do also believe that broken or damaged parts are sometimes part of tackling larger/harder obstacles. Once that happens, replace the part/parts with stronger better parts. I don't agree with the stronger half shafts argument. I prefer a "fuse" I can repair on the trail vs anything broken in my diff.
Still abide by the 315s on OEM rims will be just fine on your H3/H3T. Any idiot can break parts even with 265s on the paved road. Finesse is the key to longitivity of the IFS.
Last edited by TAINTER; Nov 2, 2013 at 12:05 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 378
Tainter my points have yet to be shut down brother! If you are still trying to prove some point by saying its fine to run 35" or 37" tires on a bone stock h3 and just "crank" the t-bars, all your doing is proving how wrong you are. Without question you are puting added stress on the drivetrain. Unless you are insane you cannot argue that! Cast diffs, stronger cv joints, reinforcing the steering are all things that "should" be done to handle the added forces applied with larger tires. For guys who say "don't worry just stick 35" under it and go" you boys sure know a lot about the Warranty dept. and what they will allow. As a Tech myself I know a little about the warranty process. But around we go and I will say it one more time, have fun abusing your rigs and keep taking them into the "good ol' boy" deals to get fixed. I will continue to wheel without trashing my truck because I built it for the trail. I hope you new Hummer owners use your heads and make wise choices when it comes to just pitching bigger tire on just because they don't touch the fenders.
If you'd do a little reading here you'd see that most guys that seriously wheel their rigs do reinforce the steering rack, even if they are running 285's. None of the stuff you are bringing up is groundbreaking. It's been discussed here a million times.
If you go back to the first post, one of you "senior" members ask the question
"Can I go back and put OEM tires back on my 22" wheels to get more sidewall"??????
Sooooo...... Ya, you can hop in a cold bath and yell out how hot it is all ya want, does not make it right. You do realize you are arguing that it is not a good idea to beef up your rig when going from a 31-33" tire to a 35-37" tire on a ifs truck. I was trying to help a misguided fellow hummer owner and you are calling me wrong? Your fools! Period.
"Can I go back and put OEM tires back on my 22" wheels to get more sidewall"??????
Sooooo...... Ya, you can hop in a cold bath and yell out how hot it is all ya want, does not make it right. You do realize you are arguing that it is not a good idea to beef up your rig when going from a 31-33" tire to a 35-37" tire on a ifs truck. I was trying to help a misguided fellow hummer owner and you are calling me wrong? Your fools! Period.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
#2. No one is agruing that modification is wrong. We are still trying to get you to admit that your post below is just not true on both accounts. YOU CAN RUN UP TO A 35" TIRE WITHOUT ANY MODIFICATIONS & YOU DON'T NEED A LEVELING KIT TO RAISE THE FRONT END.
Twisting it into something else will not make what you posted below correct in any way at any time.
Last edited by TAINTER; Nov 4, 2013 at 12:45 AM.
Keep stretching for that last 1/2" there Tainter! For the first time I somewhat agree with you. You "can" put a 35" tire on an un modified h3, not arguing that. It's if it recommendable to tell a newby to. Putting lipstick on a pig does not make it a women!
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 262
1. Rubbing on the sway bar at full lock
2. Rubbing on the OEM fender flares that I have installed.
Issue solved by cranking up the truck.
Being running 35's on two different trucks at the same time, unlike the other guys, I didnt beef up my steering or change my CM bushing (although I must because its due). Been 2 years on both trucks, 35K miles on one and 20K miles on the other, not a single related issue.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,042
No-one is going to argue that 35's don't put additional stress on the suspension. We're just saying that the truck can take it. And there's nothing rednecked about it. Just because I didn't over-pay for a lift? We've fought hard to avoid the "Hummer Tax" from the aftermarket. Having owned some European cycles in the past I'm very familiar with the snobbery that if it isnt carbon fiber or unobtanium and obscenely expensive, then its a POS. I don't buy it.