Thank you so much bro...I will check on that!!!

 

If you dont wheel the truck you get away with 35" tires but you will rub at full turn and hit ANY bump! Heck if I must be honest, you can stuff 37" tires on a stock h3 if you dont plan to turn left or right.

 

Also, if you just tighten the "t" bars and good to go like some on here suggest you will end up with a lot of nose dive, premature cv joint failure and you will wear out tires quicker than a drift car. Never said you need a new torsion key but you will need new 2" longer than stock shocks, get it realigned and really should replace the bumpstops with longer ones as they are progressive and are part of the functioning suspension. But heck, I have only owned 4 and currently have 2 so what would I know????

 

I've gotta disagree with a couple of those points. I had new 33" duratracs on my truck when I bought it at 64k miles and the t-bars were set to 23 1/4" with perfect alignment. At 88k miles I cranked the t-bars again to 23.7 inches and did nothing more than center the tie rods to keep the wheel straight since one side t-bar had more turns than the other to rise up. At 113k miles I replaced the tires and the only abnormal wear to the suspension or wheels was from an upper ball joint that went bad for the last 5k miles on the tires. I rotated the tires at about 10-12k mile intervals. I haven't worn out my cv joints, have wheeled it quite a bit and the tires lasted what I had expected to get. Sure it nose dives more, big deal. Still on stock adventure shocks because raising the ride height doesn't change total suspension travel, new shocks are not necessary.

 

I have 35" Duratracs, torsion bar crank to 23.5" and 1/2 longer bump stops. I wheel the **** out of my truck, mostly rock crawling and have NO issues other than a SLIGHT rub at full lock. I don't have any problems with bumps. I have owned my truck for 4 years.

I personally wheel with about 30 other H3's setup pretty much like mine. and we don't have any of the problems with CV's or tire wear.

We aren't a bunch of street queens or mall crawlers but use our trucks as they were designed to be used - Off Road. Most of us do our own wrenching too.
So what do I know ????

 

The issue with the shocks guys with the T-bars cranked up the factory shocks act as limiting straps and you end up with thunk noise on rebound. As far as alignment, if you change any setting to "straighten" the wheels the you sir did a shade tree alignment. If left at factory caster camber set points you will bind the cv joint. Your tires make a big A shape and the a-arms are pointed way down verse the level factory setting. So top of tires in, a-arms pointed down, hence the bound cv!!! Most of the guys on here wheel their hummers and wrench on their own trucks, we know that this or that "can" work but why in the heck by a hummer then baling wire and duct tape fix it? It's not cool! It's redneck! Rednecks drive jeeps!

 

I dont see how adjusting the steering wheel to point straight affected caster or camber which it sounds like you are talking about. And at stock settings, the shock internal bump stops are still the limiting design factor. You have to use longer shocks to get that extra 1/2" of travel, stock or lifted. Lifting doesn't change total travel, only where the suspension sits in the total range of travel.

 

Another H3/H3T owner here who has adjusted the torsion bars, has 35s and 37s and only a rub on full lock. No premature tire wear (55K+ on 2 different sets of MTZs) with the OEM alignment paramaters. Wheel them often with the OEM OffRoad Package shocks with the 1/2" Hunner nut trick and the OEM progressive dampeners.

Oh yeah, nothing is "redneck" on our rigs. We have owned 6 of them, wheeled ALL of them and currently have 2. But what do we know.

RaYoSeKiZ; it all depends on the backspacing on the wheels you have if you will get rubbing on the sway bar, inner fender well (front or rear), fender flares (if you have them) or the mud flaps (if you have them).

 

Quick lesson so pay attention! When you tighten the T-bars the force added pushes the a-arms down. As in you are driving your truck around with your front suspension at full droop. Whith out a proper alignment you run the "risk" of improper tire wear. I know, I know, we all have tape measures and we all do our best to get everything level and square. The variables is why it should be done. A slighter weaker t-bar may cause issues you may not see up front. As far as 37 on a "levelled truck" I guess if you never, I don't know, get off the highway will (fit) under. I run 315 70 17 kuhmo kl71 MT on my T and for those of you who don't know, 34.25x13ish and I will tell you even not turning but comming off a rock or small ledge I have "rubbed". The redneck part is for buying a hummer, spending a couple grand on tires and wheels then skipping out on things like the proper shocks to save a buck. Just think of it like this, if you use the term "trick" when you talk about working on your hummer, You Might Be A Redneck!

 

There is plenty of droop left with the front end adjusted to 23 1/4". I could see if someone went to 24" or even 25" but then you would bottom out the adjustment bolt before getting to that point.

Hmmmm, running 37s now on the OEM slotted 7s, I must not "I don't know, get off the highway". I may want to try that some day. Maybe someone could teach a class on it?

WOW, maybe it is becuse someone has aftermarket 17" rims without proper backspacing which will cause someones 34.25" ricers to "rub" when "not turning but comming off a rock or small ledge"?