What you do have on this site are a lot of H3 owners who actually have done the modifications described and put them thru a lot of hard use.

I'll take real world experiences over bull**** every time.

 

Engineer of what? I AM an engineer also ( electrical engineer). Yes I do understand the torsion suspension, that is why I installed torsion keys.

Keep cranking on them, and have a great day.

 

Since a torsion lift does nothing other than rotate the torsion bars to a different position, perhaps you can explain what the aftermarket key does that a simple adjustment of the stock key doesn't do (on an H3)?

 

Then please explain.

 

With the new keys the adjustment bolt is in roughly the same position as stock, it's the indexing of the hexagonal hole that makes the difference by allowing the bar to be twisted more before the key contacts the crossmember. On my truck I cranked the stock set up until one side was bottomed out, this only gave me 1 inch of lift, with the Pro Comp keys the re-indexed hole gave me 2 1/4 inches and I adjusted the bolts to give me 2 1/2 inches total. The aftermarket keys just allow you to twist the torsion bar more than what the limits of the stock keys will allow. Here's a pic showing the new key over the old key with the hex holes lined up, you can see the adjusting bolt contact surface is much lower, so to locate them in position in the crossmember you are going to have to put a lot more "twist" on the torsion bar. This will also limit and stiffen the suspension.

Please, I am done with this. I had only suggested for the gentleman to do it right. I can honestly care less what you do to your vehicles.

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I think I figured this out!

1. He owns an H2 that needs new keys to adjust the rig more than 3/4" to 1" not an H3 which has the adjust the built in.
2. He may have fibbed a little on his 01-18-2014, 07:35 PM

 

And electrical engineer, and I own a H2 also.

 

Let me try to explain it again. In order to lift the front end of the truck, you must twist the hex end of the torsion arm, correct? OK, so let's assume that the stock position of the torsion hex has the top flat facing 12:00, and the stock key arm facing 9:00. If we want to put the torsion hex at 1:00 to gain the required lift, that requires the the key to point at 10:00, right? Now, IF the stock key can't be adjusted to 10:00 (it hits the chassis, or the bolt is too short, or...) then a "reclocked" aftermarket key can be used that "starts" at 8:00 instead and ends up at 9:00. BUT, BOTH KEYS result in the torsion hex being at the exact same postion (moving it from 12:00 to 1:00), meaning that there is no difference in the travel or spring rate between the stock and aftermarket keys. The ONLY difference is the final resting position of the arm on the key. Heck, once positioned, you could conceivably weld the end of the torsion in place and remove the key completely! So you see, the key's position is irrelevant; it is the final HEX position that is important.

Yes, reclocked keys are necessary to gain lift on some vehicles. They are not necessary on the H3; there is enough adjustability with the stock keys to gain the lift required. The only exception would be if your torsions are worn out/fatigued, in which case you are really just putting a band-aid on it.

 

So re-indexed keys are needed only when the stock keys bottom out. By then you clearly need new T-bars. Speaking of bars, I need a cocktail engineer, it's 12 O'clock somewhere.

 

Two Engineers walk into a Bar.......