LED lighting load resistor, questions, discussion, and idea...
#1
LED lighting load resistor, questions, discussion, and idea...
OK. Now, that I have your attention. Especially, for the electrical engineers and/or geniuses that hang around here.
1. Must you install a Load Resistor (LR) at every position where there is a flashing LED light?
2. Or, will it suffice to put one LR across the location for the rear turn signal,
and that will supply enough resistance for the front turn signal LED?
Open for definite answers, or discussion...
Now, my idea, if possible.
If only one LR is necessary, per side, to cover both front and rear installed LEDs, can you wire in an LR at the trailer light connector?
My thought was, to create a plug-in that could be easily installed into the trailer light plug, and that would solve the hyper-flash for all the
flashing LEDs. Of course, we're still talking about one LR per side. So, it would require 2 LRs, to be installed in the 'plug'.
Whatchall think?
EJ
1. Must you install a Load Resistor (LR) at every position where there is a flashing LED light?
2. Or, will it suffice to put one LR across the location for the rear turn signal,
and that will supply enough resistance for the front turn signal LED?
Open for definite answers, or discussion...
Now, my idea, if possible.
If only one LR is necessary, per side, to cover both front and rear installed LEDs, can you wire in an LR at the trailer light connector?
My thought was, to create a plug-in that could be easily installed into the trailer light plug, and that would solve the hyper-flash for all the
flashing LEDs. Of course, we're still talking about one LR per side. So, it would require 2 LRs, to be installed in the 'plug'.
Whatchall think?
EJ
#2
Power for each bulb is supplied independently from the Body Control Module. Proceed with caution; I don't know if the BCM has current overdraw protection if you don't calculate the correct resistance to use. If you burn out the drivers for the turn signals, it's time for a new BCM. I'll eventually convert to LEDs all the way around for the turn signals and running lights. When I do, I will test the current draw for each leg of the circuit using the stock incandescent bulbs, then swap the bulbs for LEDs and add resistance using a resistance substitution box until I find a close match. I've had many of my students ask about LED conversions and will probably turn this into a lab demonstration for my Advanced Automotive Electrical class during the upcoming semester. I'll post the results here when we get it figured out.
#3
Our H3's are an early CAN-bus system and do require specific LED bulbs to replace the incandescent bulbs.
I just changed out the back up incandescent bulbs with LED's and it tripped the "Stab Sys Failure" in the DIC, but no codes.
After playing with the bulbs I went a different route entirely. I bought the,
IPCW LEDT-346CR Ruby Red Tail lamp
It is completely OEM looking with all LED's for brake, tail and turn signal. Very bright
I just changed out the back up incandescent bulbs with LED's and it tripped the "Stab Sys Failure" in the DIC, but no codes.
After playing with the bulbs I went a different route entirely. I bought the,
IPCW LEDT-346CR Ruby Red Tail lamp
It is completely OEM looking with all LED's for brake, tail and turn signal. Very bright
#6
Load resistors (LRs as you call them) should be used for every light socket with LED conversions unless they cam with them inline already.
Reason: most of the lighting sockets are monitored individually by the BCM. A lot of them have separate fuses too.
Reason: most of the lighting sockets are monitored individually by the BCM. A lot of them have separate fuses too.
#8
The link below is a white LED 3157 bulb that works in the back up bulb position.
I have had them installed and they trip no codes or cause any problems with the BCM
I used these bulbs when I had my OEM tail light housings and I am still using them with the new LED tail light housings from IPCW
Good Luck
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