Heater control bulb change. Dash removal
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 52
From: Puyallup, WA
Can anyone tell me if the items here (The window/lock controls, the dashboard gauges, and the HVAC/4x4 controls) have filter colors on them. I'd like to go all orange or white, but I'm not certain if the orange LED's would work straight forward. If they have a filter, it would change the orange to a different color. Things like the hot or cold indicatr on the HVAC control knobb comes to mind, or the MPH/KPH on the speedometer. Any ideas? I know what type to buy from this forum, I just need help figuring out what color to buy.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 48
potroast,
I ended up using the bulbs found here:
Eiko 12V .06A/T-1 Wire Term 7219 * | Auto (Automotive) Lamp
They match perfectly 1:1. They are the same fit, size, brightness, etc. They will match your existing factory bulbs perfectly.
Yes, to remove the panel, put your thumbs in the lighter sockets and pull out. It is held in by several clips all the way around up to the vents at the top. It is all one piece. The entire panel is connected at several points with electrical wires/clips which power the buttons/controls. You will have to reach back and unclip each connection before removing the entire panel. Tip: Just unclip and wiggle while pulling outwards to remove them. There are 4 screws holding the heater/AC/fan control ***** in place. Remove those screws along with the 3 plugs on the back of the control module.
Once I had the control module out, I then had to remove the plastic black housing. I did this by using an exacto knife to shave away at the black plastic clips around it. These clips are pretty strong and I couldn't pry it apart without breaking the thing or cracking the plastic. Once the black clips were shaved down, I slid the back piece off of the front (white piece). I then had to remove the old bulbs from the circuit board. You just simply twist them out of their socket. I then solder the new bulbs in.
Took me about 45 minutes total. I have pictures of the process that I can upload.
I personally recommend getting these bulbs and doing it this way. Hope this helps. Let me know.
I ended up using the bulbs found here:
Eiko 12V .06A/T-1 Wire Term 7219 * | Auto (Automotive) Lamp
They match perfectly 1:1. They are the same fit, size, brightness, etc. They will match your existing factory bulbs perfectly.
Yes, to remove the panel, put your thumbs in the lighter sockets and pull out. It is held in by several clips all the way around up to the vents at the top. It is all one piece. The entire panel is connected at several points with electrical wires/clips which power the buttons/controls. You will have to reach back and unclip each connection before removing the entire panel. Tip: Just unclip and wiggle while pulling outwards to remove them. There are 4 screws holding the heater/AC/fan control ***** in place. Remove those screws along with the 3 plugs on the back of the control module.
Once I had the control module out, I then had to remove the plastic black housing. I did this by using an exacto knife to shave away at the black plastic clips around it. These clips are pretty strong and I couldn't pry it apart without breaking the thing or cracking the plastic. Once the black clips were shaved down, I slid the back piece off of the front (white piece). I then had to remove the old bulbs from the circuit board. You just simply twist them out of their socket. I then solder the new bulbs in.
Took me about 45 minutes total. I have pictures of the process that I can upload.
I personally recommend getting these bulbs and doing it this way. Hope this helps. Let me know.
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 46
Does anyone know how the temperature turns the cold air to heat. Most of the time when i turn the **** to heat it still blows cold. However after flipping it back and forth and doing the factory reset the heat will come on. I hear a sequence of thuds like a flap is trying to close to allow the heat exchanger flap to open and close cold air.
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 43
[QUOTE=X_DIZZY_X;262677]Would these work?
Eiko 12V .06A/T-1 Wire Term 7219 * | Auto (Automotive) Lamp[/
Answer: YES, but those bulbs were half the size of what I pulled out of the truck....
I will tell you all that I just finished this job - thanks to all the previous posts, it was more or less a straightforward task. The (3) bulbs were soldered into their 3 individual little black plastic receptacle - and not soldered directly into the cir board.
The receptacles unscrewed easily from the board, and then it was a small delicate chore to unsolder the bad bulb's wires from the tiny metal clips holding it onto the recept, remove the bulb, thread the new bulb wires through the black plastic receptacle, relocate the metal tabs, resolder etc etc etc etc. Piece of cake for you electronics guys. Pain in the *** for this guy more accustomed to brake jobs and stereo upgrades.
Anyway:
1. Thanks for the previous pics, BIG HELP
2. The 7219-12V-.06A bulbs in the link above were half the physical size of the original OEM bulbs.
3. That said they worked perfectly and I can't tell the diff from the orig.
4. They were extremely inexpensive and come in a box of ten for $.59 each box. But when I ordered them, the company called me to say min order was ten boxes, plu $10 shipping. So bottom line, I had to buy 10 boxes of ten bulbs for total $15.
5. I replaced the burned out bulb - only - put everything back, and found an adjacent bulb burnt out. That was weird.
6. I took everything out and replaced the other burned out bulb. And then decided to do the third, which I prob should have done in the first place.
67 It's been a week, and everything works great.
I also have 97 spare bulbs. If anyone needs some, or maybe you have a model railroad layout of the Vegas strip...PM me. Happy to send some along.
Eiko 12V .06A/T-1 Wire Term 7219 * | Auto (Automotive) Lamp[/
Answer: YES, but those bulbs were half the size of what I pulled out of the truck....
I will tell you all that I just finished this job - thanks to all the previous posts, it was more or less a straightforward task. The (3) bulbs were soldered into their 3 individual little black plastic receptacle - and not soldered directly into the cir board.
The receptacles unscrewed easily from the board, and then it was a small delicate chore to unsolder the bad bulb's wires from the tiny metal clips holding it onto the recept, remove the bulb, thread the new bulb wires through the black plastic receptacle, relocate the metal tabs, resolder etc etc etc etc. Piece of cake for you electronics guys. Pain in the *** for this guy more accustomed to brake jobs and stereo upgrades.
Anyway:
1. Thanks for the previous pics, BIG HELP
2. The 7219-12V-.06A bulbs in the link above were half the physical size of the original OEM bulbs.
3. That said they worked perfectly and I can't tell the diff from the orig.
4. They were extremely inexpensive and come in a box of ten for $.59 each box. But when I ordered them, the company called me to say min order was ten boxes, plu $10 shipping. So bottom line, I had to buy 10 boxes of ten bulbs for total $15.
5. I replaced the burned out bulb - only - put everything back, and found an adjacent bulb burnt out. That was weird.
6. I took everything out and replaced the other burned out bulb. And then decided to do the third, which I prob should have done in the first place.
67 It's been a week, and everything works great.
I also have 97 spare bulbs. If anyone needs some, or maybe you have a model railroad layout of the Vegas strip...PM me. Happy to send some along.
