If I didn't think it was worth it I wouldn't have emailed you about it...

 

This is one GREAT FREAKING' Product.....

Not only did it improve my performance, it increased the length and girth of my pipe as well.

Oh wait, I may have this confused with another deal. Uh....One that a friend of a friend once tried.

Guy's name might have been ZYNE or something like that.

 

Don't you know those products are a scam, if you rub a cream on your privates wouldn't your hands get bigger too, and how is a pill going to change your DNA and make just one part of your body grow. Save your money Gunner and Zyne and use it to what really matters hair plugs.

 

Note to self: Offerorgan cream and hair plugs with next intake system.

 

A couple suggestions:

1) A plastic or nylon 6/6 material for the resonator bypass tube won't heatsoak as much as the metal tube. The heat from the exhaust manifold rises right up to the tube and will heat up the tube when sitting after running. The slow moving air can get heated while traveling through the tube and the PCM won't know about the warmer air because the IAT is near the filter in the MAF. This can create some knock retard/temporary timing reduction until the tube cools.

2) Remove the ridges in the air box base. It's a PITA but the ridges obstruct air flow.

3) Afast tapering cone filter may work better than the stock style cylindrical filter since the incoming air has a better approach angle to the filter.

4) Just some info - The 3.5L air box lid has ridges on the underside. The 3.7 L air box lid has a panel that sits below the ridges to help air flowto the top of the filter.

 

The metal pipe actually picks up far less heat than I anticipated. There is insignificant heat soak as the intake air travels through the pipe to the throttle bodyquickly.
It is just barely warm to touch after hours of running the engine. In stop and go traffic on a high heat day, your intake cannot do anything for you in that situation anyway.

Myth busted!

 

Park the H3 for a 1/2hour and see how hot the tube gets. I'm not trying to knock your product. I just walked down this path before. Removing the hood seal near the windshieldhelps get heat out and reduces heat soak too.

 

I have, November thru last week the "heat soak" you speak of does not exist, because we just busted 50F for the first time last week.

I will of course check it when we see 60, then 70, then 80, while parked on asphalt.....I have an infrared laser non contact thermometer gun.
A 16Ga. steel pipe is not going to crack, or have small pieces break off and potentially get sucked in the intake, like the plastic tube making competition, whichhas lead them to have product recalls.

If it ain't steel, it ain't real!

 

How about ceramic coating, coated inside and out, no worries of heat soak then.
Just had the exhaust on my four wheeler coated, it's nice and shiny now and cooler
to the touch.

 

I have had headers and bike pipes ceramic coated, keeps heat under control, and helps in the corrosion department.

Fact is, with an intake, not needed. Gets warm at most. There is always gonna be somebody who says......oooh that metal intake might get hotter than plastic?...
just not the case. Thesteel intake pipe is not in contact with any metal, so the heating you have to deal with is mostly radiant heat, with some convection heat transfer by the underhood air.... the engine and exhaust radiate heat, the air gets hot under the hood, everything under the hood gets heated, plastic, rubber, metal, belts, wiring, battery etc... No rocket science there.

Start moving, and the air movement begins to remove heat.