Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

H3 Alternator R&R from the top. Lots of pictures.

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  #51  
Old 03-02-2020, 11:45 AM
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There is your problem, they should not be very difficult to snap into place. Take the fuse block back apart, closely inspect it on the underside and inspect the grey and white harness connectors. You may have bent a pin/pins when trying to put it back together. While doing all that, get some CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner and spray the block connection clean and let dry before another re-installation attempt.

If you see any bent pin, carefully straighten with a pick or super tiny screw driver.
 
  #52  
Old 03-02-2020, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc Olds
There is your problem, they should not be very difficult to snap into place. Take the fuse block back apart, closely inspect it on the underside and inspect the grey and white harness connectors. You may have bent a pin/pins when trying to put it back together. While doing all that, get some CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner and spray the block connection clean and let dry before another re-installation attempt.

If you see any bent pin, carefully straighten with a pick or super tiny screw driver.
I was going by what he said here:

"Once you get the alt in and start to put everything back together, there is one thing you need to do.

When you are putting the fuse box back together you MUST put the two wiring harnesses on the fuse box. They take some force(alot) to get them to clip in. If you try to put them in the base and then put the fuse box on, it wont snap into place.

These must snap in to the top first(where all the fuses are."

Having said that, i am going back in. Inspected the pins last time and they were all good(or seemed that way).

 
  #53  
Old 03-02-2020, 01:30 PM
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So after going back in and disc/reconnect the harness box, i now have power to the dash radio and dome lights. However, no power to the windows and when i turn the key it won't crank. I can here it click under the hood, but no crank. And the key still won't come out. Hoo boy this is fun....
 
  #54  
Old 03-02-2020, 03:49 PM
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https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1433659&jsn=1

This is the alternator i installed. Can anyone confirm that this is or isn't the correct one? Trying to check all the boxes here.
 
  #55  
Old 03-02-2020, 03:52 PM
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what is your battery voltage at this moment
 
  #56  
Old 03-02-2020, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bronxteck
what is your battery voltage at this moment
Just took it to Auto Zone where i purchased it. They said it was around 12ish but still a faily good battery(plenty to crank it). Only took them about 5 minutes to top off the charge. I am at wits end.
 
  #57  
Old 03-02-2020, 05:30 PM
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Got it!

Went back at the fuse box for the 6th time with this statement in mind: "The fuse box is a pain in the *** if you didn't realize there are attachment levers that need to be pulled out from each side of the electrical connectors under the fuse box. I kept trying to push the fuse box in, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't push back in. Move those levers on the grey and white connectors."

One or more of them must have been interfering with a full seat of the boxes. When i was tightening down the battery terminals i heard a *click* in the fuse box that i wasn't hearing before. With toes crossed i turned the key and BOOM...success.

The only thing i can tell that is off is the third brake light isn't coming on, and the lights don't get any brighter when i step on the brakes. Possible fuse?
 
  #58  
Old 03-06-2020, 01:58 PM
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The high stop brake light is not fuse independent of the L/R brake lights. May just be a coincidence that you did not notice it burned out earlier??

This is no longer the proper thread to ask you continuing questions.... they would go in a new thread in the H3 section. This is about I5 alternator replacement.
 
  #59  
Old 02-16-2021, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rallyrcr
Thanks for posting!! This worked for me on my 2008 Hummer H3. Went mudding and got the alternator all jammed with mud. Luckily it failed halfway home on the highway instead of on the trails.

Some notes, and things that I did differently...
  • I did not have to remove the fuel line. I was able squeak by it and get the alternator out.
  • Removing the battery box and fuse box are essential!
  • The belt was easy to get to if you use a 3 foot tensioner wrench from harbor freight. Best $15 you can spend to make this job easier. Removing the belt was like flipping an on/off switch.
  • The fuse box is a pain in the *** if you didn't realize there are attachment levers that need to be pulled out from each side of the electrical connectors under the fuse box. I kept trying to push the fuse box in, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't push back in. Move those levers on the grey and white connectors.

Thanks again for posting this!!
Im stuck here as well. I can't get these plugs to snap back in. I'm push hard as heck and I'm getting the gap when I reconnect the box. Any more tips?


 
  #60  
Old 02-16-2021, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 06H3803
Im stuck here as well. I can't get these plugs to snap back in. I'm push hard as heck and I'm getting the gap when I reconnect the box. Any more tips?

I got them in you really have push those bad boys in. Great post by the way.
 


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