Finally got around to pulling out my transfer case, splitting it open and pulling out the plastic shift fork. As expected the material had worn away to 1/2 or less of its original thickness. Slapped the new metal unit in, sealed it up and re installed the TC. Went through the silly oil fill process, fired it up for a long test drive. Went through all the usual maneuvers that caused it to lock up in the past and so far, smooth as glass. Tested shifting in and out of hi and low lock and back to 4hi reg with the buttons without issues. I'll have to drive a bit more to be certain my involuntary lock up issues are solved, but it is looking very promising.

 

CWC, how was removing the t-case? About how long did it take you to do?


Thanks,
Spencer

 

How much for metal replacement?
I don't have any issues yet with my 06 H3 TC, but I'd like to prevent issues from ever occuring.

And is it a rough install? Can you write a guide? lol!

 

I've gone through this process myself. New metal fork was only about $20 and once you're inside the case, things are pretty simple. It was a bit of a bitch to remove and install the case itself though. I purchased the full GM manual when I first got my '06 H3 and it is what I used for this job.

 

As Boomer46 stated, I found a metal replacement from a seller on ebay for $22. If you are not having issues then I wouldn't mess with it, might want to order a part just to have it on hand though since they are inexpensive. Doing the job is pretty straightforward, I don't have any air impacts, just hand tools and I was able to do it. Two nuts at the top of the tc are pretty difficult to get to and turn with a wrench, but the rest is very accessible. After I removed the support under the trans I let it down a bit to give me more room up there. I used a floor jack modified with a small plywood platform on it to help lower down the tc after unbolting it. Best to have a helping hand for this as it is probably 80-90lbs and awkward to handle. My tips -- you shouldn't have to remove ANY gears to take out the old fork! Just pull the spring and the shaft that holds the fork in and slide it out under the chain. Slide the new one in the same position, replace shaft and spring and you're done From what I hear be VERY careful of the actuator shaft that controls the fork positions. Bending it sideways can snap a small pin at the bottom that positions it. When sealing up the case go sparingly with the RTV, it only calls for 3-4mm bead. I probably had 5mm and a little more squeezed out than I thought would. You want a seal, but not a bunch of RTV squeezing inside the case to gum up the filter screen, or getting in the bearings.-- I split the job into two days, removal and repair first day and re-install the second day. Figured it would let the RTV get good and cured overnight, and I had the time. Probably had 6 or 7 hours total in the job (I didn't rush anything and torqued all bolts to spec). I posted some links I used to gather info on the subject and they were very helpful (hopefully they work), along with talking to some members of this and other forums. Looking back maybe I should have filmed and posted to you-tube since I couldn't find any specific videos detailing the procedure there.. Good luck!

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...-change-27278/

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bl..._mode_fork.pdf

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...-breaks-17948/

H3 Hummer | Schwarttzy

http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/upl...nsfer-Case.pdf