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Hummer H3For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.
[QUOTE=Mikey13b;398747]Объясните, пожалуйста, что Вы имеете в виду, говоря о том, что 5-й цилиндр не охлаждается при высоком давлении воды? Я не понимаю[/QUOTE
] Everything is simple. See how the fluid flows. Inlet and outlet on the first cylinder. 5th cylinder is not fully cooled. With a strong fluid supply, there will be a temperature difference near the first and fifth cylinders.
but you see the temperature on the panel only to the fifth cylinder.
Sorry could you please explain what you mean by the 5th cylinder might not be cooled if I have too much water pressure? I dont quite understand. If I have lots of water pressure wouldnt this cool each cylinder thoroughly?
Yes electric fans are the goal! Is our clutch fan thermo controlled? If so, at what temps does it activate?
Thank you
Originally Posted by Mikey13b
Sorry could you please explain what mean about the 5th cylinder not being cooled if there is a lot of water pressure? I don't quite understand.
Yes an electric fan is the goal! Do you know how much flow our oem water pumps are capable of producing?
Thanks
Originally Posted by Mikey13b
Sorry, could you please explain what you mean by the 5th cylinder not being cooled if there is too much water pressure? I don't quite understand. I would have assumed lots of pressure would mean everything is getting thoroughly cooled.
Thanks
Originally Posted by Mikey13b
Could you please explain what you mean about the 5th cylinder not being cooled if water pressure is high? I dont understand
ONE and ONE post only would have done. Keep chasing that tail.
Объясните, пожалуйста, что Вы имеете в виду, говоря о том, что 5-й цилиндр не охлаждается при высоком давлении воды? Я не понимаю[/QUOTE
] Everything is simple. See how the fluid flows. Inlet and outlet on the first cylinder. 5th cylinder is not fully cooled. With a strong fluid supply, there will be a temperature difference near the first and fifth cylinders.
but you see the temperature on the panel only to the fifth cylinder.
Oh I see what your saying, so the flow may push the cool fluid in and out through the outlet on the 1st cylinder and the fluid flow wont make it down through to the 5th cylinder.
Do you know roughly what the flow rate is of the oem water pump?
Oh I see what your saying, so the flow may push the cool fluid in and out through the outlet on the 1st cylinder and the fluid flow wont make it down through to the 5th cylinder.
Do you know roughly what the flow rate is of the oem water pump?
What are you missing? Ideal engine temp is 195°F<Get to that as fast as possible after startup(prevent carbon buildup/premature engine wear)! Oem water pump gpm depends on>RPM! With the Tstat, temp is controlled and when fully opened, will change water pump gpm. At operating temp(tstat fully opens), coolant flows at around 10gpm at idle....gpm increases when RPM's increase to around 40gpm at WOT.
What are you missing? Ideal engine temp is 195°F<Get to that as fast as possible after startup(prevent carbon buildup/premature engine wear)! Oem water pump gpm depends on>RPM! With the Tstat, temp is controlled and when fully opened, will change water pump gpm. At operating temp(tstat fully opens), coolant flows at around 10gpm at idle....gpm increases when RPM's increase to around 40gpm at WOT.
Comfortable temperature 190. When the arrow does not reach the middle of the scale (this is the case for all other cars). Native thermostat is made to overheat the engine (requirement for EURO4). On old thermostats, the arrow was below the middle of the scale (approximately 190).
The thermostat is made in a terrible place - from below. Because of this, poor engine cooling. The thermostat does not close the small circle, so the pump does not work fully.
I moved the thermostat to the top of the radiator and forgot about the overheating problem.
Comfortable temperature 190. When the arrow does not reach the middle of the scale (this is the case for all other cars). Native thermostat is made to overheat the engine (requirement for EURO4). On old thermostats, the arrow was below the middle of the scale (approximately 190).
The thermostat is made in a terrible place - from below. Because of this, poor engine cooling. The thermostat does not close the small circle, so the pump does not work fully.
I moved the thermostat to the top of the radiator and forgot about the overheating problem.
When what arrow reached the middle of what scale? Are you talking about the dash temperature gauge? If so, everybody in the H3 community knows that gauge is NOT accurate, and is basically an idiot light with a needle. The ONLY way to see what an H3's operating temperature is is by using a OBDII type scanner, and that is supposed to be 195F. Nobody makes a T State to overheat the engine, BS.
When what arrow reached the middle of what scale? Are you talking about the dash temperature gauge? If so, everybody in the H3 community knows that gauge is NOT accurate, and is basically an idiot light with a needle. The ONLY way to see what an H3's operating temperature is is by using a OBDII type scanner, and that is supposed to be 195F. Nobody makes a T State to overheat the engine, BS.
Overheating happens well over 240F, not an issue.
Lots of controversy over temperature.
But if you read the manual, then it has one feature. Normal engine temperature is higher than normal automatic transmission temperature. Strange!? Does the automatic transmission cool the engine?)))) At this temperature (195F), the automatic transmission will die quickly. Although I put an additional radiator for the transmission (from the Tuareg). Ideally located in the bumper. Above automatic transmission 185F never rises, even in the mountains in summer.
Oh boy. The Radiator loop for the AT cools the Trans which does not have any internal combustion to heat it. The Radiator is NOT at the same temp as the engine either because the temp sender on H3s is in the engine outbound coolant side (the coolant exiting the engine). Coolant entering the engine (inbound) is always much cooler than what the temp sensor sees, like 15-20F + cooler.
Keep chasing that tail.
