Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

Driver Door Window Issue: Not the usual one

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Old May 24, 2025 | 11:03 PM
  #11  
Knightblade's Avatar
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Originally Posted by NMH3
A great resource for wiring diagrams and a bunch of service manual technical data can be found here: https://schwarttzy.com/h3-hummer/#h3-hummer-manual

Maybe download a local copy in case it ever gets pulled off the web.

A great source for exploded parts diagram can be found here: https://webautocats.com/en-us/epc/hummer/

I use this whenever I'm looking for a part number for something.

This is a great resource for the meaning of Hummer specific codes: https://www.dtcdecode.com/HUMMER
Awesome, I actually almost forgot about Schwartzy! I've saved the links to my faves and am going to get a thumb drive for the manual, download the thing and get it printed/bound so I've got it on hand. Too good of a resource not to have handy as I did snag a Colorado/Canyon manual a while back because someone told me that 'oh its the same drivetrain!' I mean, it -kinda- is but there are a lot of different things (obviously :P ) Thank you for the resources...Now if this damned rain would just stop for -one- day, I could go and track down these damned wires and see what's going on!
 
Old May 28, 2025 | 09:03 PM
  #12  
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Minor Update: So I pulled the driver door off of the vehicle entirely, checked the 'can bus' connector for the door harness, checked continuity on the door side, then voltage to the pins on the vehicle side, I checked under the dash, behind the kick panel, and along the door trim for any wires that were broken/frayed or anything like that. I pulled the switch panel out again and probed it, all voltages seemed good. Getting a better look at the pins on the large harness connector that goes between the door and the vehicle, there was one pin that had corrosion on it, almost looked like a fuzzy film of sorts. So I used contact cleaner and a fiberglass brush to clean it up as best I could, re-installed the door. The aftermarket switch box is still in place at the moment, but I wanted to try it, bam, window works again, faster than previously too! Maybe it was a combination of the non-OEM switches and the pin corrosion? I did end up biting the bullet and snagged a GM original switch panel and will be swapping it out as a precaution to all this happening -again-.

Once the GM OEM switch cluster is installed, I'll see how that works for a little while and hope/pray that it doesn't bugger up on me again!
 
Old Jun 6, 2025 | 04:44 PM
  #13  
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So! Keeping my fingers, toes and eyes crossed (Unless driving of course) that everything thus far has been okay. Windows, locks and everything else are working now that I've replaced the aftermarket driver door switch cluster with the OEM GM one. Also I do think that the corrosion that was on the pin in the main door harness into the body could have been additional, thankfully after cleaning that off thoroughly, no more issues.

Hopefully, it remains that way! So just goes to show you, get what you pay for I guess! Lol.
 
Old Jun 6, 2025 | 06:41 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Knightblade
So! Keeping my fingers, toes and eyes crossed (Unless driving of course) that everything thus far has been okay. Windows, locks and everything else are working now that I've replaced the aftermarket driver door switch cluster with the OEM GM one. Also I do think that the corrosion that was on the pin in the main door harness into the body could have been additional, thankfully after cleaning that off thoroughly, no more issues.

Hopefully, it remains that way! So just goes to show you, get what you pay for I guess! Lol.
I installed an AM drivers door master switch which works on all windows/door locks. Btw, my TPMS Sensors are old, I've never received a low tire DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT.
 
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