Neither of my H3s ever had that issue when cold. I would not call it common. I'm in MI and the H3s are outside 365/24/7.

 

Simple google search of this forum. It appears to be common problem for many of us.

To the gentleman trying to correct this issue, I can tell you that (for other issues I am experiencing) I have replaced the car battery and replaced the battery terminal connectors in the past 2weeks and it has no affect on this problem. It was present before and after.

I doubt there is anything wrong with the motor. Good on you to check the power window switch and keep checking the wiring / connections in the drivers side door. In my case I am suspecting moisture that is getting in.

You can also check your vehicle manual for the correct fuse number (can't remember which # off top of my head). Pull it and inspect. Very likely there is not a bad fuse and sometimes just reseating it will temp correct issue. Good luck!

 

I meant the issue is not common because it's cold outside. Hence: "Neither of my H3s ever had that issue when cold."

I know all about how the failure of a proper battery contact and voltage inconsistency cause the driver door window and auto lock issue. Look back more than 10 years ago when I posted the fixes and that it can clear itself if the battery connection issue is addressed.

 

Fair enough. Maybe my problem is unique. It ONLY occurs in Winter / Freezing temps. All summer... no issue.

 

So far I have replaced the terminals, replaced the master power switch,, tried removing the battery terminals, checked and wiggled the fuses that go to the power windows, I mean the locks are working great(for now) its just the drivers side window, when I unhook the connectors from the bottom of the master power switch and plug them back in the window works for a little then just stops. I am going to purchase dielectric grease on the way home from work, I did notice that one of the connectors looked somewhat wet, not even sure if it goes to the power windows, it is located in the somewhat upper right corner of the door behind the door panel, i figure either way it needs to stay dry.

 

The window motor works with the original master switch?
Jump the connector to test your window motor.

 

The window does the same thing with the original master switch, Im not sure how to jump the connector, electric is my weakness... lol

 

12v is not electric. When it comes to 110v+,that's electric, and I know how it feels!

 

Ok 12V is also my weakness lol, im just not sure how to jump the connector

 

Wiring diagram shows the drivers side window motor wire colors, or you can take the drivers door panel off, disconnect,and send 12v+ & -ground to the window motor, to test operation.