Hi all: Getting ready to change out my inner CV boots with a split boot kit and can't find this question asked anywhere.... When you put the vehicle in PARK with the front wheels off the floor, can you still turn the front wheels at all by hand?? My guess is yes since it don't need all four wheels to securely hold a vehicle. I was wondering because I want to put the front on jack stands and while greasing my CV joints, be able to turn the wheel to make it easier so I don't have to crawl up and over the joint to pack grease in there. I am hoping I'm right because it looks like a task to put the vehicle in 'switched' neutral, or maybe if I block the rear tires, shift trans into neutral. And a tip for the day...AFTER washing that faded whitish black trim on all four sides( just to knock the sand, mud, and dust off), USE >>> TRIM SERUM <<< to make that plastic look like new again! I rub it on semi loosely( but not enough to run) a couple times until you have a good uniform coat, then I find if you let it set over night, you will be amazed !!!!! I will bever use a different product again, and this should last at least 2-3 years if parked outside. I park inside so I believe mine will last at least 5 years or better. Thanks everyone!

 

The front drive shaft will be locked, because the back wheels are on the ground. However, because both diffs are open, you will be able to rotate one front wheel as long as the other is off the ground; they will spin in opposite directions. This I know from experience. I needed to put the transfer case in neutral to spin the front drive shaft, but not to rotate front wheels with both off the ground.

Also, not a chore to put the transfer case in neutral. Key on, hold high unlock and low lock buttons in for 5 seconds or so. Easy peasy.

My guess is if you were to raise two tires on one side of the vehicle, you could do the same, but through the transfer case (as long as that is not in lock), but then park would not work (I don't believe). That is why it is so important to BLOCK THE WHEELS.

​​​​​

 

Great , thanks for the quick reply.

 

H3 half shaft service is REPLACEMENT with ACDelco shafts. Scored the one below off ebay for like $165 shipped to my door brand new. Ain't worth fiddle fartin around with boot kits. When they get tired they need to be replaced.

 

Wish I had the ambition to buy the 'ready to install' axles and install them. BTW, I will be repacking my inner joints with Lucas Red & Tacky #2. Would use Redline but you cannot mix synthetic with regular grease. If and when it fails again, I will take it to my buddy's shop and let him install OEM CV axle assemblies. Why split boots? I love a challenge and I've watched many videos where it works fine. The outers take much more stress than inners. And besides, I like gluing things together as long as I don't glue myself to them....

 

I had a torn boot a while back. I determined there was no hardware issue, and likely an external event, but then realized I'd have to pull the entire half just to install a dang boot, so I started checking out the spit ones. I don't know what the material is, but it was like working with a couple of ziplock bags full of jello. But there was something similar to a tongue & groove setup that fit together and then a flat lip where a string of small bolts & nuts that held it together. Wasn't bad once you got it started. I've kept an eye on it from time to time, and so far so good. Heck of lot less work.

Don't know how reliable the glue-together type has been.

 

After a lot of research and You Tube videos, I went with the kit from from Great Britain called Bailcast. It is the popular 'universal' kit used on Hummers Product # CVS18. I believe it is a Butyl rubber product using tongue and groove with no screws. I've seen the blue kit and that was out of the question for me as it seemed too stiff and didn't make sense. My only worry is getting grease on the tongue and groove area. So, I'm going to clean the shaft thoroughly and wipe as much from the joint area before slipping the boot over the shaft. I could even place saran wrap over the area so I get a clean 'slip over'. , then glue up the boot, wait 24 hours for full strength, slide the boot away from the joint and pack it with grease before install with clamps. Thanks for your comment.