i am running out of ideas too and I checked the ground for the PCM
from the fuse box and it is grounded well

I will try all those suggestions today after work and post an update

 

Can someone check this for me,

turn the key to on but no crank, and leave the key to on
look for fuse 3 which id fuel pump fuse under the hood
tap on the little tiny metal on top of it, there should be 2 on the fuse

do you get power on both sides? Or just 1?

thank you

 

if it is a fuse and one side has power then both sides should have power if not the fuse is blown.

 

ok so that one problem I found . I found out that the actual fuse have power only on one side of the fuse number 3. I replaced the fuse and it still does it. I checked the circuit with the relay and 86 on the relay suppose to have 12v feed and mine doesn’t so I ran a jumper cable from the ignition to 86 on the fuel pump relay and now I am getting power on both sides of the fuse . But still crank no start but I am getting a good fuel pressure now . So I am gonna check spark next when I get back home . Maybe my fuse box is bad and have some sort of internal damage?

 

So, I checked the fuses at the fuse box for ignition, fuel, PCM, and injectors. All of them passed. I checked for spark, but there was none. I checked the power from the coil plug, and there was. I checked the signal from the coil plug to the PCM, but there was no signal. I removed the crankshaft sensor, and it had resistance. However, I’m going to test it tomorrow while it’s in the engine and cranked and check for DC to see if it sends a signal. That will help confirm if it’s the problem. I also watched the RPM while it was cranking, and there was none. I’m done testing for tonight because it’s so cold. I’ll try to find an OEM crankshaft sensor and give it a shot tomorrow. I’ll keep you updated.

 

There is a trick to properly reseat the Fuse Block in the Harness Connectors underneath in the Fuse Tray. If you just tried to push the Fuse Block down on top of the harnesses and tray, that will leave some thing not properly connected together all the way. You have to snap the harness connectors on the bottom of the Fuse Block before you try to seat the Fuse Block in the Tray.

 

That’s a great idea I’ll try that today. I went to oreaily and I got a crankshaft sensor it have a life time warranty. I looked everywhere online and couldn’t find oem becuase it’s discontinued . I even called few dealership and no luck. Let’s hope this make it start . I will install it and try after work today

 

1) If you have the original crankshaft sensor you had before you rebuilt the engine, I would definitely remove whatever you have in there currently then put the old one back in (the sensor you used when the engine still ran). If you don’t have an OEM sensor or the old sensor, then I will provide a link for the one I used for my rebuild. It is aftermarket, but so far this brand has been working well for me.

Once you know you have a good sensor, then…..

2) when installing the sensor, use extreme care not to damage the connector pins on both the crankshaft sensor, and also the sensor connector itself. Make sure the sensor pins are not bent or otherwise damaged. The 2007 sensor only has 2x pins; it is extremely easy to damage them if you try to jam the connector on the sensor too harshly, which is relatively easy to do since the crankshaft sensor is in such an awkward position to begin with. The connector should slide into the sensor relatively easily; if there is any holdup, or pressure, do not simply brute force it on because it’s most likely the connector not quite aligning with the sensor pins, and applying too much pressure will bend the pins. Just reset, and try again and eventually you’ll get it right. Bottom line, use care when installing the sensor and connecting it to the electrical connector.

Once you have the sensor installed, even without performing a crankshaft relearn, the engine should still start and run just fine (at least it did in my case after my rebuild). After I performed a relearn, it just sweetened things up slightly (smoother idle, slightly better mpg, etc.).

If you are certain you have a good sensor, as well as a good connection at the sensor, and the engine still does not start, then it is probably not the crank sensor. If you have a good sensor, you should have a slight RPM reading when simply cranking the engine, even if it doesn’t start.

Here is the brand I used for my rebuild; yes it’s aftermarket, but it has worked well so far and didn’t break the bank either. Can’t speak to its long term reliability, but it’s held up for the first 3k miles anyways.


TLR - Try your old sensor when the engine still ran, or get an OEM/quality aftermarket sensor. Take care not to damage anything when plugging in the sensor. Engine should run properly even without a crank relearn; if it doesn’t start, then it’s probably not the crank sensor.

 

thank you so much for explanation . The one I got from oreily supposedly is a good brand aftermarket but I’ll order the one you sent me just to be safe and to have an extra one. I didn’t have no spark or signals coming from pcm when cranking so I really pray it just a faulty sensor , I will clean the connectors and put the sensor it and I’ll back prob it too to see if It read and send signals like it suppose to if it didn’t start. I pray it does and that’s it’s only a defective sensor

 

My money is on the aftermarket alarm/remote start, or the fuse box not being correctly seated.