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Hummer H3For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.
Personally I would get a used box and start over, however I thought of something that may also work for you: Butyl flashing. I recently installed a window on an old garage. I flashed it with butyl rubbber and it stuck great. Thoroughly clean/degloss surface first. In your case I would flash both inside and outside the box.
We tested the absolute Do Do out of all those theories of adding heat tape (and getting that Hillbilly look) more than 10 years ago. Heat transfer inside of the Air Filter Box and intake is not an issue. When under a load, where an intake can provide the advantages of increased flow velocity and volume, the intake charge moves through the system so fast that there is literally no time (less than 1/10TH of a second... and at WOT, less than 1/30TH of a second) for heat exchange. The Factor Air Filter Box is already sealed to the fender with a compressed foam gasket. The source of the air charge is much more important.
Are things going to get heated up in stop and go traffic in high heat humid days? For sure, but an intake is going to do nothing for you in that situation anyways. Soon as you get rolling, the heat is gone quickly.
We tested the absolute Do Do out of all those theories of adding heat tape (and getting that Hillbilly look) more than 10 years ago. Heat transfer inside of the Air Filter Box and intake is not an issue. When under a load, where an intake can provide the advantages of increased flow velocity and volume, the intake charge moves through the system so fast that there is literally no time (less than 1/10TH of a second... and at WOT, less than 1/30TH of a second) for heat exchange. The Factor Air Filter Box is already sealed to the fender with a compressed foam gasket. The source of the air charge is much more important.
Are things going to get heated up in stop and go traffic in high heat humid days? For sure, but an intake is going to do nothing for you in that situation anyways. Soon as you get rolling, the heat is gone quickly.
Yes, even @idle colder air will flow in, as long as the airbox is sealed inside the engine compartment. Like I stated to Fambam, that cutout needs to be sealed, airtight, otherwise the airbox will also be pulling in hot air, from inside the engine compartment. Not good.
i've caught the CAI bug that seems to be with every Hummer owner looking for the quick performance upgrade.
After reading every thread I could to avoid necro on any of them, the going opinion seems to be a airdoc intake is the easiest choice.
my question is this, can I combine a airdoc intake with a Volant CAI box or similar. I hate the look of the stock box and would love to make a change that keeps the air cold and performance high. I know the resonator box has to go from what I've read. the issue seems that most aftermarket CAI boxes use the resonator...
So can I get around this somehow? what do you all recommend?
I just did a search on your question and found a nice clean/airtight install here on HF.
Volant air intake systems utilize a high-velocity venturi filter adapter which provides a smooth transition through the MAF sensor into the intake tube for a much needed airflow improvement over the factory rubber tubing and resonator box. Volant's Cool Air box is larger than the factory unit and incorporates a larger opening to collect a higher volume of colder ambient air. This model includes a Pro-5 filter which gets reoiled every 10,000 miles and serviced every 50,000 miles with cleaning kit P/N 5100.
The resonator itself couldn't be simpler in design; it's basically just an expansion chamber or wide spot in the otherwise-smooth intake pipe. It may or may not contain some kind of baffle or plate, depending upon the design and the intent of the designers. Resonators come in two types: In-line resonators are open chambers that sit in the intake tube, while side-branch resonators are chambers that sit next to the tube and are connected to it via a small duct or channel.
The Common Misconception
Most hot-rodders and car enthusiasts think of intake resonators as simple mufflers in the intake tube, devices designed to siphon all the awesomeness out of a car's sound track to appease soccer moms and senior citizens. That makes it a prime candidate for the "chuck-it" school of auto modification. After all, it's basically just a plastic tumor growing off of a tube that should by definition be as smooth and blemish free as possible. While sound control is indeed part of the resonator's job, the sound control itself is really more of a side effect of its primary purpose.
Pressure Wave Harmonics
Air flowing into your cylinder head's intake port doesn't move in a straight line while the valve is open, then politely stop in its tracks to await another valve opening. When the valve closes, the moving column of air slams into it, then compresses and bounces back like a spring. This pressure wave travels backward at the speed of sound until the intake runner opens up or it hits something, and then it bounces back toward the cylinder. This is the "first harmonic." The pressure wave actually bounces back and forth two or three more times before the intake valve opens again.
Intake Tube Pulses
The resonator in your intake is technically known as a Helmholz resonator, an acoustic device used to control pressure wave harmonics. Air bouncing back out of your engine and into the intake tube doesn't do it in a single pulse the way it would in a single intake runner; the multiple pistons put out pressure waves at their own intervals, and some of those are going to try to bounce back in while others are going out. The result is a "clog" or high pressure area in your intake tube that ultimately limits airflow through almost the entire rpm spectrum.
The Resonator
Adding an expansion chamber to the intake tube forces air coming back out of the engine to slow down to fill the cavity, thus expending a great deal of its energy and slowing the pressure wave reversion. This slowdown allows fresh air to flow toward the engine without fighting pressure reversion waves the entire way, thus aiding in cylinder filling. Since these pressure waves are essentially sound, giving them a place to expend their energy before exiting the air filter box ends up dampening the intake noise and quieting the engine. Thus, the resonator helps to make the engine paradoxically quieter and more powerful.
I just did a search on your question and found a nice clean/airtight install here on HF.
Except, as I said before, that round part at the bottom of the Volant box above is OPEN..... their attempt to get more air spoils the effort by adding in warm air in from the bottom. It does look cool though.
Except, as I said before, that round part at the bottom of the Volant box above is OPEN..... their attempt to get more air spoils the effort by adding in warm air in from the bottom. It does look cool though.
Yes, that defeats the purpose of CAI, it needs a scoop air intake routed outside the engine compartment, like this:
I had a similar early production under bumper BANKS scoop on my DURAMAX. Didn’t work out too well........ filled the filter box with cigarette butts, feathers, leaves etc.. . Tried inserting a screen and ( of course depending on conditions ) it would get blocked defeating the purpose.
I don't see where you gained performance? You still have 3'' inlet restriction from the air box, removed the resonator, and it appears you used a steel air pipe, which will absorb heat rather easily, and increase the temperature of the air flowing into the throttle body.
I had a similar early production under bumper BANKS scoop on my DURAMAX. Didn’t work out too well........ filled the filter box with cigarette butts, feathers, leaves etc.. . Tried inserting a screen and ( of course depending on conditions ) it would get blocked defeating the purpose.
All air boxes get debris in them, hence the purpose of the air FILTER. Yes, inducting more air will increase the amount of debris that comes into the air box, however, that does not restrict air flow if the debris is inside the air box! When the debris is stuck to the air filter, air flow can be reduced, however it would have to be a greater amount to restrict the size of exhaust, from the air box. Just like a shop vac, I have many and use them often, they fill up with debris and still perform well, however when the performance diminishes, I clean the filter. Proper maintenance is the key, only a shop vac is needed. Lift hood, vacuum out the air box and I also vacuum out all the debris from the cowl and pull the trim covers to vac there too.
08-08-2019, 09:49 AM
