You will not need a new rubber O ring, unless you somehow trash the one that is on there now.

TB Spacers work marvelously,.... as a paper weight and outdoor table cloth holder downers. Otherwise, they are not worth chit.

 

I found the spacer gave me 1/2 mile increase in mpg's and a slightly better throttle response but other than the mpg's it did nothing. This is with stock airbox and stock filter. For the lengthy of time and gain it has paid for itself.

 

My H3 has been idling rough form some time now, not throwing any codes. I removed the MAF sensor and sprayed it down with the special spray cleaner from AutoZone. Did it right in the AutoZone lot, two screws, took all of 3 minutes.

I couldn't believe it, idle went from up from a rough 600 RMP to smooth a 700 RPM. Awesome!

Thanks guys.

 

Word of caution make sure that you use throttle body cleaner, not carb cleaner, and maf cleaner. Carb cleaner is alot stronger and carbs are made for fuel where throttle bodies only meter the amount of air to the intake. However crankcase fumes cause the black deposits (carbon ) to form and block the smaller air passages.

 

How are you doing? I was hoping to get some assistance from you as well DAGKANA... I am haveing the same issue with the crapy idle in my 07 H3. It hasn't got to the point of stalling out yet but it is close, I have tryied everything else that I could possibly come up with, I am mechanically capible but worried to screw up my new hummer. I just bought it used two months ago and I have invested so much money into this truck and just want it to run like new again. PLEASE HELP!

 

Replied via email Chad

 

I have a 06 h2 sut with basically same stall problem people r talking about. Mine happens only in cold weather on first start of the day going from reverse to drive. They want to replace my throttle body to the tune of $700. But after reading things here I had throttle body cleaned and put some injector cleaner in gas tank. For three days it has been ok. I don't want to pay for throttle body replacement if its now ok. Any views on this?

 

Well to all having issues with their 07 H3 stalling or idling bad at stops. I had the same issues that many are talking about... I took about 1 hour and $9 to fix this issue. And thanx to dagkana's posts the problem went away. Go to AutoZone and get yourself a can of Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner, and a can of throttle body cleaner. Remove the MAF sensor and clean it good. Then set aside to completly dry and remove the throttle body and clean. Reassemble and bam.....your H3 will run like new again. Repeat everytime you change your air filter. It is recommended at least every 20,000 miles. This took me about 1 hour, most of the time waiting for the parts to fully dry. I will be back on the road after $9 and 1 hour. Good luck.

 

Took everyones advice on the stalling issue and cleaned the MAF sensor and Throttle body, and she ran great for a while...then the rough idle got worse....to the point of her stalling out when idling in park. We always got an error code for a misfire in Cyliner 1 (12k misfires in 1 and at least 1k in the others within minutes of using the LiveScan).....so we replaced the spark plugs twice (GM told me that the Bosch plugs might have caused a problem as ALL GM vehicles love only AC Delco parts, so after about 5k miles on the Bosch plugs we switched them out) and we changed the coils at the same time (about 2 weeks ago)....still stalling and showing issues in Cylinder 1.....now on to the ACTUAL problem.....we have to replace the fuel injectors. Hopefully THIS will actually stop the stalling. At least we started out the cheapest route and worked our way up....$30 an injector is gonna be a little pricey! And BTW the injectors are WAY harder to get to than anything else!! A major P.I.T.A!!!!!!!! The codes she was throwing are P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire) and P0171 (system 2 lean bank 1) if anyone else has checked and had these same errors.

 

I had the same issue as you, same on going problem for the past 5 months, same codes except mine was for Cyl 5.

Cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle Body
Cleaned and Stretched Coil Springs
Changed Spark Plugs
Sea Foam treatment followed by a fuel tank with Techron.

The idle improved a little with each step but the idle drop never completely went away.

Final solution, changed the Thermostat.

Yup, makes no sense but I finally took it to a master mechanic and that's what he did.

Something about the car running needless OBD diagnostic's at idle because it could not establish a stable water temperature. The thermostat is supposed to maintain the radiator fluid at 186 degree's, if it doesn't, it cannot complete one of the idle OBD tests and its keeps trying over and over again. The RPM drop is the result of OBD test that is constantly cycling every time the vehicle hits a hot idle.

Ground Hog Day!