im wondering if it is safe to just remove the resister?

 

I would like to know since GM put a resister in line can one put a slow blow fuse in place where u can access this easy? it seems to be a problem so there fore this resistor is too small? i don't want to bypass this,,,,being an electrician there should be a reason they put a resister in line....i am on the second time with this problem....first time i brought my h3 into the dealer a few yrs back....i am not looking to give them my money for a poor planning issue~!

 

i'm debating on the best fix for this issue,,,,there has to be a reason for this resister....or is there,,,,and if so what is this reason? would a slow blow fuse in line be a good replacement for gm's poor design? i been to the dealer for this already and i am not wanting to go back there.....other than this my h3 has been flaw less~!

 

Haven't had any issues either. Love my h3. Not so much when I had this problem, but want another one for sure.(the wife drives ours daily, I have to drive a stinkin Subaru. Lol) The slow blow fuse may be the fix. I think this happens though due to a poor connector pin. It becomes hot and that pin becomes covered with a burnt spot. This interferes with the connection. At least that what I have found most everyone sees. Some replace, some do the fix, but I've read that some are just cleaning that pin and have had success. I will say this, I called GM after I tried the "fix" , told them what I had done and what I had replaced and they suggested I go to a dealer to have the problem diagnosed. They weren't going to pay for the parts I had already bought obviously, or the dealers fee to inspect it, but did appear they were more than willing to reimburse me to have it fixed. My issue was a burnt wire that powers the unit under the steering column. Probably happened due to my poor ability to soldier. The shop tech was a friend, and didn't turn in the work order so I got away free of charge. Also, I'd suggest to everyone to find a GM dealer that doesn't charge 100+ an hour to inspect. My Cadillac/hummer dealer charges somewhere near $125 hr. For anything. GMC dealer charges 65-80. Call GM and see what they suggest. If you file a claim once and have it fixed and call back 2 years down the road and it happens again then I would have to imagine they would "good faith" it and cover it in full. My point is I wouldn't go in and start adding in-line fuses, bigger relays and risk an issue that would damage your hummer well beyond a dead blower motor and never have a case with GM. They know this was a poor design and will help.

 

Yeah, you could check the resister with an OHM Meter but, as far as I can recollect, there's no resistance value on the resisters. You can check continuity but that won't tell you much without the known resistance value. In most cases, as you can read on the forum, the red connector is destroyed due to heat which indicates that the connector was not engineered for the current draw required to run the blower and, if you fix it with the standard GM parts, it WILL happen again. There have been many suggested ways to fix this and all seem to work. Just remember to use a little heavier wire and connectors designed to take heavy current.

 

Let me try to clarify for some. I have not seen a wiring diagram to this but I have read the entire thread. First off from everything I have read there are more then one problem here on this thread. So lets keep it focused on the Resistor pack. This H3 ( I have a 2008 H3 59k miles) has three resistors in a pack one for low med and high. there is a very high speed. The very high speed is the fourth position on the fan position ****. It has no resister to restrict the current. The switch aka the fan **** in very high speed applies a ground which causes max speed on the blower motor. The resistor pack is being cooled off by the fan. If the resister pack is not cooled properly it will fry and cause issue with low med and high speed (one or many) but very high speed is by passing this resistor pack so it works. Now there is another issue with the design the red/white connector might have a loose connection on the pin that would and might cause more resistance on this connection and some indicate this might cause increase heat on the connection hence causing the connection to arc and burn out. The fix in this situation is to replace the connectors and or burnt pins. Or once could and i'm not saying do this but have someone properly solder wires directly together and shield with proper heat shrink tubing. Not electrical tape with never last. One would put a fuse of proper size in line with each of the resistor connections this would be a parallel circuit not a series circuit. Now if you have an actual wiring diagram i would add a proper fuse. However without knowing the current going thru the three resistors one would not know the proper size and GMC should be able to provide a real fix. The purpose of the fuse is to detect a high current thru the circuit and blow to prevent the wires and connection pins from burning out like they are doing. Also if you can determine one fuse and the size then you put it under the glove box inline and that way if it blow it's easy to replace the fuse and the problem of the arcing is gone. Really GMC engineers should really wake up this is not a big design issue just some good ole fashion automotive engineering. I have 2 years of electronics in college, One year of electronices training in one of the hardiest career fields in the USAF and a total of 6 years of college in technical fields and 9 years fixing your state of the art electronic warefare systems on B52G/H and F15/F16 fighter aircraft. So if you didn't understand you should just take it to the dealer and suck it up. Also on previous page is a video that shows you most to the connection and how to get to it. However this resistor pack is not the only issue. My fan is completely dead and it's not the fuses, resistor pack or connection. I'll get back to you once I get my issue resolved. Best of luck guys/gals! I love my hummer and it will not be the last one.

 

My 2006 H3 has been doing something similar so I'm not sure if it's the blower resistor or not. The a/c blows nice, hard and cold. Soon as I switch it to heat or anything in between on the dial it does nothing but continue to blow cold a/c. I've tried calibrating the a/c actuator with no results. So my blower works but just doesn't blow cold air. Last year it did this but sometime in the fall it started to work. This fall I can't get the heated air to produce. Could it still be the blower? 111,000mi

 

Your prob. is NOT caused by the resistor. I have a simular problem in that I cannot control the temp. it blows really cold and if i turn the temp control one click towrd warmer, it will start blowing hot air. The problem is the modules that control the "flappers" in the system. There are three modules located behind the center upper console, to the right of your right leg (when on the gas peddle). These modules can be seen if you somewhat a contortionist with a flashlight. There is an earlier reply made by a member that explains how to test and relace these modules. Hope this helps!

 

I am very pleased to read your advice, i reside in Sweden, and i think that you have solved my problem, but i may ask is it possible that the fan is gone as well?

 

I was just wondering how many of you guys out there with this blower motor problem also have the sunroof problem as well? Is it at all possible that there is moisture leaking down which contributes to this? Maybe not, but just curious . . . thanks for any responses and 'F' Generic Motors!