I did what you said and filed with that website. Thanks. 08 w/63000 when a/c resistor went out.

 

Wifes A/C went out yesterday. I used this method and it worked great. Only the plug female connector was melted, (the same end as everyone elses shown in the pics) the male end was fine with just some slight discoloration on the plastic around it. I used 12ga. wire on mine and it looked about equal to what the factory used. Fired it up and A/C was back to blowing cold again.

 

Today a friend with a smayy Chevy showed me new pump #8!! he will be replacing as soon as he drains and drops the full tank,,,again! He gets free replacements from an auto parts store. The latest shows a new style connector to fix an ongoing connection problem when the connection heats up and causes loss of contact.
I told him id like to help,and get a look at the old style,maybe get some pics.
HE claims the pump will run when removed when connected with jumper clips,I guess they make contact with the damaged part.
I'll try to get the data sheet on the pump.
Today we jumped 12v direct to the wire going to the pump with no luck.

 

Ok, after two attempts to read all this I finally finished. My time is limited so here goes. My AC has been working fine for about 4 months. H3 2008 with 57k on it. After reading this long list i'd say I have some variation of this problem. Since I have no blower on low, med, high or super high, I'd rule out the resistor pack and burnt connector issue. I'll pull the connector apart and look at it. Now if I disconnect the red connector from the white resistor pack. Is this color matchup correct? I'm just looking for some clarification here so others will know. Can I ground at the resistor pack or at the red connector? Do the switch wires go to the red connector? I'm assuming so this seems to make the most since. I also do hear a clicking sound from high position to super high position. Where it this relay located? Seems like the relay is attached to the blower motor. I did look under the dash (glove box) and I can see the red connector and what plasitic that holds the resistor pack in place. Two phillups head screws to remove. I'm an old bumber guy that had 20 years in high tech electronics on bombers and fighters so I should be able to fix this if motivated. Safety first for those that don't work on cars much the resistors back will burn you so don't try to apply power to them without putting them back into place first. Fix will take longer but it's the proper way. Seems to me that a good solution too this issue would be to put the proper size fuse inline with the super high speed wire. Also I would go to radio shack and buy some shrink wrap tubes. This is to cover your solder joints after soldering them. Put shrink wrap on wire before soldering it. Solder using a flux core solder. Tip put a little solder between tip of iron and wire helps with the heat transfer. Once heated up apply solder to end of wire away from tip. Once the wire is hot the solder will suck to the iron. Remove iron form joint as soon as solder is applied (1 - 2 secs). Also does any one know where I can get a hardcopy manual and what the current is going through this super high speed wire? I'm assuming at this point it's a relay... all help is greatful!

 

Ok, a few things I forgot. On the heat skrink tubing. Once the solder joint is cooled off slide the heat skrink in place over the solder joint and heat up your heat gun and heat the skrink wrap and it will skrink and make a nice hard plastic protection for your solder joint. If anyone has the procedure to remove the glove box that would make the job easier for an old man like me. Also for those not use to electrical wiring in a car turn your ignition off while working on the wires and put everything back in place and test with power from ignition on. Also, I tested all the fuses in my fuse box. See owners manual for fuse locations. All my fuses were good with a fuse tester. Can anyone tell me if any of the larger items in the fuse box apply to this blower motor issue? And thanks!! to everyone shedding some light on this issue and fix. Seems like we have this issue will all H3 between 06 and 10 is that correct? If anyone has a wiring diagram of this circuitry that would be good to shoot a photo of it and post it. I'll take some good photos as i'm trying to solve my issue so everyone has some good photos. Great Site and best of all Great H3! I have only had my hummer for 4 months but love it already. I'm planning on selling my other 3 cars (truck, suv and car) and after I pay this sucker off i'm getting a 2010 H3T Alpha baby!

 

my 06 just had the same problem! On a long trip running A/C the fan just quite. Thanks to this thread, pulled out the resistor and voia la, the harness was burnt. I was able to clean it up and plug it back in and it worked. At least until I can get the parts and fix it properly. With this being Hawaii the resistor was all rusted too so it needs to be replaced!

Thank you everyone for your feedback in this post. Its nice to just "get right to the problem" when you have experience from those who have "been there."

 

I just used your idea and it was very easy to do. Thanks so much for the info! The only thing I did different was use a needle nose to pull melted male connector out instead of drilling. Be careful not to crack or break connector though.

 

Thanks to this thread I found this same a/c fan connector problem in our H3. My Dad's a champ and is fixing the connector for me as the male & female ends of the plug seem to be melted together. He's just bypassing the end orange wire (next to the yellow) by drilling a hole thru the plug from the orange wire to where it connects to the resistor on the other end and then rewiring it.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL the previous posts. You're a great help!...

 

Here is the video of the repair for a Colorado same setup

 

I just went through this problem. Bought a new resistor and the plug parts.
The repair went easy enough.

My question is. Are you guys saying that just because the plug and wires melt down. Doesn't mean that the resistor its self is bad?
I was thinking that if the blower quit and the plug melted the resistor was junk.
How can I test the resistor? OME meter?

Thanks for any infomation.