2008 H3 electrical issues...
#1
2008 H3 electrical issues...
I have 2008 H3 and have nothing but problem after problem relating to the electrical system. On 4th battery in 3 years and have gone through 2 radios. Something seems to be drawing current while its shut off or a short making it seem that way. It started with battery draining but lately its so dead over night that key faub doesnt even work to unlock doors. Have to use key to unlock. But when I hook up charger after about 30 seconds it starts up like a fully charged battery. Does not start up like a weak battery. The past two mornings it has reset clock, honked the alarm horn and yesterday even had static and popping noise through speakers as I started it.
#2
Hello and welcome to HF.
Are you still trying to use the crappy azzed OEM Battery Terminal Connectors? If so, hack them off and replace with an aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand. The FIRST mod to be done to every H3/H3T to correct a known failure point.
Next, do some searching here on how to track a parasitic electrical drain. You need a Volt/Multi Meter and they are less than $15.
A common short location for early H3s is where the harness goes under the bumper near the license plate and rubs the chassis wearing through the insulation. Look between the bumper and body with the rear door open.
If your battery is discharged, it is going to take a LOT more than 30 seconds on a charger to bring it back to 12.6V+.
Are you still trying to use the crappy azzed OEM Battery Terminal Connectors? If so, hack them off and replace with an aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand. The FIRST mod to be done to every H3/H3T to correct a known failure point.
Next, do some searching here on how to track a parasitic electrical drain. You need a Volt/Multi Meter and they are less than $15.
A common short location for early H3s is where the harness goes under the bumper near the license plate and rubs the chassis wearing through the insulation. Look between the bumper and body with the rear door open.
If your battery is discharged, it is going to take a LOT more than 30 seconds on a charger to bring it back to 12.6V+.
#4
Have you looked at the wire harnesses that connect to the back of the radio?
Maybe someone installed an aftermarket and reinstalled an OEM to sell it and the wires on the plug are not connected tot he proper wires from the vehicle?
Check each of the fuses underhold with a volt meter for parasitic draw. After the RAP (Retained Accessory Power) has ended.
Maybe someone installed an aftermarket and reinstalled an OEM to sell it and the wires on the plug are not connected tot he proper wires from the vehicle?
Check each of the fuses underhold with a volt meter for parasitic draw. After the RAP (Retained Accessory Power) has ended.
#5
I haven't. Back story on this is at 93k miles the instrument panel cluster was replaced for some reason. I bout it around 107k miles. Within a month I bought a new battery. And keep in mind when I got it the date sticker on battery was almost 3 months old. I got sideways with dealership because this was a certified vehicle whatever and they had to have known something and revealed it in order to sell it. They denied knowing anything. Then after about a year that battery was giving me fits so I took it to the shop. They hooked up a thermal and said something in radio was staying on and drawing too much juice. Shop quoted new radio and also he found same radio in a wrecked humer at a salvage for 1/3 price. I jumped on that. So another year and half later my radio doesnt work at all. And when battery is almost dead or getting jumped or charged, sometimes there is a static then a popping noise through my speakers. Again, my radio doesnt work. Only clock on it. I'm just gonna disconnect radio harness and see what happens. Pulling the fuse to radio causes other stuff like a/c to ot work and some other crap.
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