Here in Miami is a hassle to get a good old mechanic that works. Took H3 to mech to replace the oxygen sensor on the exhaust manifold. He said: "No can do" the censor won't come out. So here refer met an exhaust tech. The whole manifolds and the cat need to be replaced.
OK I said. So how much. $1,435.
What can I go? What can I do?
Where did the real mechanics go?
I remember a mechanic using an empty can of condense milk to fix a carburetor!

 

 

You have an exhaust issue. Go to a repair facility that does exhaust work............. like a muffler shop, not a national chain with kids working there, but a genuine local muffler shop that does all kinds of exhaust work.

BTW, there is no such thing as a "seized" O2 sensor, real exhaust shops know how to remove it. They have a torch and know how to use it.

Also, H3 questions go in the H3 section so I MOVED this for you.

 

[QUOTE=Doc Olds;392207]You have an exhaust issue. Go to a repair facility that does exhaust work............. like a muffler shop, not a national chain with kids working there, but a genuine local muffler shop that does all kinds of exhaust work.

New gas pump install. Old infront of it.

The old and the new.


Bad gas leak!!!

BTW, there is no such thing as a "seized" O2 sensor, real exhaust shops know how to remove it. They have a torch and know how to use it.

Also, H3 questions go in the H3 section so I MOVED this for you

 

yes the rotted out fuel pump is very common here up north. you need to check your brake lines as they also tend to be just as rotted if the pump looks like that. they almost go hand in hand up here.

 

HALF-AZZED repair! Reused the the rotted FPM retainer ring & the fuel supply line? The module or line could blow at any given time.

 

Do you know the status of the cat that's attached to the manifold? I just went through this exact same deal in May 2021.. I tried for days to remove my 02 sensor from the manifold and ended up rounding the bolt off. Threw everything at it: PB Blaster, WD-40 Penetrant, Freeze Off, torched it. Nothing I had was getting that sensor off. I explored taking it to a shop which, Doc's right, probably would have been able to get it out but both of my cats were burned so there was no point in just getting the sensor out an leaving the bad cat/manifold.

Don't necessarily want to suggest replacing parts that aren't bad but at the cost you were quoted, might as well replace the whole unit. Do you have the time/tools to replace yourself? I bought a Walker manifold from Rock Auto for ~$500 and installed it myself in my driveway about a year ago. Would never ever in a million years say it was easy but I was not going to pay a shop a ridiculous price to complete that work. Unfortunately, I had 3 broken exhaust bolts that I had to deal with as well. Only one if them was sticking out far enough to get a bolt extractor on it to turn out but the other 2 sucked. Had to re-tap the bolt hole at the back of the engine by the firewall and actually snapped the tap by accident. Thought about setting fire to the car right there and jumping in but luckily a tap extractor turned it out. Just wanted to mention that it's definitely possible to take care of it yourself if you have the means (or if you don't find a shop that will torch it off for you) and want to take care of it for 1/3 of the price you were quoted.. I barely had any mechanical experience as well but did a ton of research going into it. My posts from last May might help you out some if you're still dealing with the issue and want to get after it yourself: Exhaust Manifold/Catalytic Converter Replacement Advice and also Exhaust Manifold Bolt Removal - Am I Screwed??. Good luck

 

You beat me to it!

 

Just to save a few bucks?????
Future reference for anyone that replaces the MU1473 FPM (#12 & #13), the lock/retainer ring (#14) NOT included, nor the 25896785 feed/supply line(#17).

Do It Right The First Time!

Btw, my replacements have already outlasted the original factory install,due to the secret sauce I added.