Last summer I replaced R. front and both rear pipes on ABS module to calipers, in my driveway, no lift no adjustments to frame or anything, A little tricky blind but all came together non problem,

L. front is now leaking,
this is a pita due to to being on further side of abs module.

Simply unable to line up fitting blind and behind another line...

What if anything in in the sheet metal above?
Possible to cut a 4in hole directly above unit? to access everything easily, might as well do mc1 and mc2.
Seems access from above would make this extremely easy.

Have owned truck forever, not planning to sell, just worried if there might be some wiring in floor possibly?

simply patch hole with stainless plates top and bottom, rtv seal and bolts.

Possible?

 

Off the top of my head.... You have a harness under the lower sill plate of the driver's door that runs from front to back. That sill plate simply pops up to remove it. Towards the back of the driver's seat, a section of harness goes to the power seat. And there's a ground location at the bottom of the B pillar. I would expose the harness by lifting up the sill plate, and figure out exactly what part of sheet metal is above the ABS module.....
Or just remove the ABS module, perhaps just lower it a bit? Rather than hacking up the floor of your H2?

 

might try that, thnx.

Biggest problem being is im lying on my back reaching up and over (cannot see area) and trying to align fitting perfectly vertical and horizontal.

Anyone have a tip or trick on how to align while blind?

Your right I dont want to hack and others were fairly easy... but this one is a pita/frustrating and would give easy access to mc1 and mc2

Dealer quoted $11k, lol.

 

There is one more option.

You can remove the body mounts on the driver side. You may or may not need to loosen up the ones on the passenger side. Lift the driver's side of the body.... You're probably looking for something like 3 inches..... I would say go slow and see what you need to remove, perhaps the ground wires that come down to the body mount brackets.

It would be a lot easier than cutting that hole in the floor. Needing to raise the body on vehicles for certain maintenance is becoming more common.

 

Well done for getting the rear lines in.

This is the LF fitting you're referring to.

GM's galvanized steel lines rot both outside and inside creating "pitted" weak spots, disturbing them can accelerate failures.

The ECBM sits in a cradle which is bolted to the chassis, even with the module removed there's no easy way of removing the cradle.


So lowering the cradle itself isn't really possible, however the module itself pivots about 2 pins so it can "rock" for alignment, to remove the module these pins need to be slackened-off , the module can then be lifted-up and slid out for removal.

If removing, take extra great care to prevent brake fluid getting anywhere near the module and it's connectors, brake fluid is conductive and can destroy it.

A good set of pipe wrenches will be useful, however for the LF achieving a full flat's rotation may not be possible using a single wrench, a 2nd wrench "cranked" slightly will help (heat up and bend) Alternating between the two wrenches, as painfully slow as it is, proved to be the solution.

Even after cleaning-up the threads on the ECBM's aluminum case and checking the fittings wound-in easily by hand, aligning the lines, tightening them and getting them to seal was a difficult job, especially if using SS lines and fittings. Also, new fittings have a rough finish making them "tight", so it's best to "break" them in before-hand, avoid crossing-thread all costs, easily done, difficult to fix!

As you mentioned, access is restricted and hard to work around, very neck aching, I made a support out of an empty plastic container and strapped it to my neck, using lots of illumination and mirrors helped align the fittings.

Originally I thought changing the lines as and when they failed was somehow the way forward, that's the most stupid idea I ever had, especially living on top of steep hill - what was I thinking!

 

11k wtf? They just don't want to work on it. That's the entire value of a lot of H2s lol. Curious, why take a 20yr old car to the dealership? They're definitely going to screw you and they usually don't even do the job correctly or they pretend they did stuff they didn't and charge for it