ok, I am going to do the same... I ma thinking Ill just remove it all... my setup is old, and rusted... I want to clean it all up... I will still get teh ARB twin with an eaternal tank and route it to that same location in the back. Ill find another idea for the buttons up front... if the plug and relay dont get it for me... I will go this route:

Arnott Installation Manual


Scroll down to the part that explains the Electronic Bypass Module Installation and it will explain how to disable the error message. You would no longer get power to the compressor after installing it.

 

As long as the Air Suspension Controller Module remains connected the BCU will constantly communicate with it so I'm guessing that coil-spring converstions modify the ride-height sensors to foil the controller into thinking the suspension is level.

If the AS Controller is diconnected, and the battery disconnected, when the BCU boots-up it will not detect the AS Controller and so assumes there isn't one hence the message goes away.

 

 

The Tow/Haul button on the dash is unrelated. That modifies the transmission shift points. Do not remove that as that is still fully functional. The rear ride height button can be removed or re-purposed if you are totally removing the air suspension though. To re-purpose that button you would have to cut "some" of the wires to it. Probably keep the lighting wires if you still want it to light up with the dash lighting but cut the other wires to it. It is a very low current rated momentary switch though, so to use it for much of anything you will want to add a latching relay that will stay active on one press then deactivate on another press (or deactivate/reset on loss of power from ignition). There are different types of active latching relays that act in different ways for that sort of thing. I'm going to do the same for the (factory sort of - the switch replaces the rear wiper switch and comes out of a Tahoe with a rear wiper and fog lights) fog light switch I added to control the driving lights I replaced the semi-useless gigantic daytime running lights with.

 

 

 

 

Here is another thing you might consider..... I'm pretty sure that the factory buttons used on the right side of the dash on GM trucks and SUV's for 99-07 models will also snap into the same spots on our H2's in the vertical stack of buttons. This could give some alternative buttons that are still OEM and keep it looking stock. GM made them with a lot of different functions (including the key switch airbag one which should also fit). I think most are momentary though which means you would need to use a latching relay for most things unless you wanted to use one for an air horn or something. This is an example - https://www.ebay.com/itm/263081343255

That one has the full 4 position pod that comes in the trucks and suv's. It has a two position blank at the top where on many models the onstar buttons are. Each of the two lower ones can be popped out of that frame and individually be used. There were a lot of varieties of them that GM made but some were uncommon factory options like PTO, 4 wheel steer, aux lights (for snow plow packages), etc. The uncommon ones are hard to find. I just like things looking "stock" versus drilling a hole somewhere and sticking an obviously aftermarket switch in. You will notice once you pull the center stack trim off that those three buttons are the exact same shape as the airbag switch over to the right. The dash trim just covers the edges of them.

One good example. Many H2 owners add a switch just under the rear wiper **** for auxiliary lights. I got a rear wiper switch from a Tahoe. That also happens to have a factory fog light button under it. Just had to make sure to also get a bit of the harness with the plug so I could extract the extra pins with some wire to add to my stock plug which does not have the extra pins populated (the plug is the same, just has some unused holes for additional wires). I've also changed the lighting to red but instead of drilling a hole and sticking an obviously aftermarket switch there, it looks 100% stock. I still have not yet had the time to wire it fully up though. I was hoping the fog light function would be active in our BCM but so far a Tech2 does see the button being pushed but its not triggering the output (since an H2 never had stock fog lights). Not had time but I'm going to see about getting a different BCM out of an Escalade or something that has at least all of the same functions as my H2 but also came with other features to get it to work using the BCM instead of a latching relay (but a latching relay is also an option).

 

 

I do also plan on modding the rear air ride system myself as well. I plan on keeping the air springs though. Replacing just those is not all that expensive. My plan is to replace the stock compressor, add an air tank, and have it so that I can still raise, lower the rear some but also have the ability to run air tools and an air horn. Obviously I'll have to bypass the factory air ride computer for that to work like I want though. In that scenario, a couple of non-factory switches will really be the only choice to control a couple of solenoids for raising/lowering the rear - another option would be a mechanical style actuator for the rear that just automatically maintains a specific ride height. Those work by the angle of the mechanical valve attached to the rear suspension. I have some experience with some of these setups from working on a lot of ambulances.... That is also why I have several air tanks, a couple of compressors, and a few air horns lying around to mess with.