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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
In the HummerFixes videoat the 2:06 mark you can see the sensors connect to the Inflatable Restraint Module (SDM under the drivers seat) however this circuit is for a 2005, and 08 is likely to be similar, it seems to use the same Serial Comms to communicate with the BCM
Found this schematic:-
Sounds like you may have a broken the wiring to the front left sensor (B0083 00) circuit 36 & 38 above, or damaged the electronic circuit inside the SDM module, perhaps this is where the smoke originated?
This is what I needed - thanks. I'll give it a whirl in the coming days to see if I get any continuity from the SDM under the seat, and the front impact sensor. I wish the SDM is what died but my hopes are low. The smoke was coming from the driver's kick panel, whereas the SDM is under the seat.
Originally Posted by oceanbrave
An interesting snippet is you have side impact sensors, presumably inside the front doors.
Take care when working with the airbag system, keep the battery disconnected and allow time for the circuits to discharge.
On a different project I was inside of each door (change door panels from black to brick, new power lock actuators (whole latch assembly), upgrade speakers, and sound insulation) I noted there was an airbag sensor on each door on the main crash support beam. Took extra care to not get near those with anything I was doing.
And sadly this is what it took for me to learn the lesson, but now I am ensuring my battery has been disconnected for awhile before I go futzing around with wires and electronics in there now.
Now for the other issues:
Oddly enough, my wipers are working now. For my last update, all I did was remove, inspect, and re-install the BCM, wiper fuse, and transfer case control module (and I did actually smell them as H2-SUT suggested but didn't detect anything). I didn't actually make any changes, but I also didn't test the wipers until today.
Oceanbrave do you have the wiring schematic for the hood open sensor as well? That's my other issue and it's preventing remote start - I really miss it now that we're into summer heat with highs over 100F (38C for you).
@HellHoof
The correct GM terminology is "Hood Ajar Indicator" it took me a while to work this out.
This may be what you're looking for.
There was also this Component Testing Procedure
Hood Ajar Switch
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the hood ajar switch.
With the switch in the hood closed position, test for infinite resistance between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal A. ⇒ If not infinite, replace the hood ajar switch.
Test for less than 2 ohms between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal B. ⇒ If greater than the specified range, replace the hood ajar switch.
With the switch in the hood open position, test for infinite resistance between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal B. ⇒ If not infinite, replace the hood ajar switch.
Test for less than 2 ohms between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal A. ⇒ If greater than the specified range, replace the hood ajar switch.
@HellHoof
The correct GM terminology is "Hood Ajar Indicator" it took me a while to work this out.
This may be what you're looking for.
There was also this Component Testing Procedure
Hood Ajar Switch
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the hood ajar switch.
With the switch in the hood closed position, test for infinite resistance between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal A. ⇒ If not infinite, replace the hood ajar switch.
Test for less than 2 ohms between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal B. ⇒ If greater than the specified range, replace the hood ajar switch.
With the switch in the hood open position, test for infinite resistance between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal B. ⇒ If not infinite, replace the hood ajar switch.
Test for less than 2 ohms between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal A. ⇒ If greater than the specified range, replace the hood ajar switch.
All I can say is...It's good to have you on this board.. Nice work.
@HellHoof
The correct GM terminology is "Hood Ajar Indicator" it took me a while to work this out.
This may be what you're looking for.
There was also this Component Testing Procedure
Hood Ajar Switch
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the hood ajar switch.
With the switch in the hood closed position, test for infinite resistance between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal A. ⇒ If not infinite, replace the hood ajar switch.
Test for less than 2 ohms between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal B. ⇒ If greater than the specified range, replace the hood ajar switch.
With the switch in the hood open position, test for infinite resistance between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal B. ⇒ If not infinite, replace the hood ajar switch.
Test for less than 2 ohms between the ground terminal C and the signal terminal A. ⇒ If greater than the specified range, replace the hood ajar switch.
Thanks! I was under the hood replacing my alternator last night so I used these steps to test the sensor. The instructions were perfect, and sadly showed the sensor is good.
In the meantime, I took a gamble and bought a service manual for $15 off a sketchy website. The PDF they sent is actually very informative and useful, despite none of the references and PDF links not working. Using your instructions here, I was able to find the procedure in the manual I got, and found there's also steps to test the BCM side from the underhood connector. I'll repeat those steps tonight.
Control Module References for scan tool information
Circuit/System Verification
Ignition ON, observe the scan tool BCM Hood Open Switch and Hood Closed Switch parameters. With the hood open, the Hood Open Switch parameter should read Active and the Hood Closed Switch parameter should read Inactive. With the hood closed, the Hood Open Switch parameter should read Inactive and the Hood Closed Switch parameter should read Active.
Circuit/System Testing
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the hood ajar switch.
Ignition OFF, test for less than 5 ohms of resistance between the ground circuit terminal C and ground.
If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.
Ignition ON, test for 11.5-12.0 volts between the signal circuit terminal A and ground.
If greater than the specified range, test the signal circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.
If less than the specified range, test the signal circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.
Ignition ON, test for 11.5-12.0 volts between the signal circuit terminal B and ground.
If greater than the specified range, test the signal circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.
If less than the specified range, test the signal circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.
If all circuits test normal, test or replace the hood ajar switch.
@Mark R
This website has been so good to me, so helpful, it's only fair to give a little back 🙏
Yeah I hear yah. But going thru the Manuals and doing the research and posting pics is a lot of work. I do electronics repair on Vintage Audio and Finding problems is not easy without the service manuals. So I know how much time you put in. My post was to let you know that you and the others who post all the tech stuff are very much appreciated.
I'm sure you have helped many here and saved them money. This site is priceless for the HUMMER owner. With all the quirks they have its nice to be able to win once in a while.
Amen to that brother! Owning an H2 and maintaining it would be nearly impossible if it wasn't for this site and its talented and knowledgeable members!
