I've read the roof and doors are steel, the rest of the body is aluminum

 

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/p...ody-rust-8789/

 

it’s all galvanized steel. Hood is fiberglass. You’re thinking of the h1s

 

LOL, ...then I'm totally amazed that it has zero rust. The only rust was the exhaust manifolds, which I replaced when I went through the motor a couple months ago. I picked it up last year, had to have been garage kept.

 

The crimp on a trans cooler line was indeed leaking. Ordered replacement lines. Awaiting delivery.

While under the truck, it appears as it has had new brake lines installed.

The truck frame looks solid. No soft spots. Obvious evidence of years spent in the Midwest. But a good solid truck. Drives well.

Replacing both upper ball joints.

Trans, engine, brakes - all good - at this point.

 

Appreciate the input/feedback.

 

Those factory crimps are a very common failure point. I'm assuming that since the brake lines needed replacing, it was probably past due for the transmission cooler lines as well. Upper Midwest and Long Cold Winters takes its toll.

 

Yes. Probably could have temporarily fixed the crimped joint - however the adjacent line had rust "buldge" and simply would fail in the near future. Best to replace them and know where I am starting from.

The upper ball joints (replacements) have a lifetime warranty and with the "soundness" of the "rest" of the truck...I am hopeful to escape any other needed repairs.

The only other items I read about are the belt and waterpump. So once we get this work done, then we can enjoy the truck. Fluid leaks - just bother me. This will be a good foundation to build from.

 

Another option for the transmission cooler lines, better than OEM especially in area's with high salt use in the winter, is to go with 6AN stainless braided PTFE hoses. They sell the fittings for both the transmission and radiator....very simple to custom make your own hoses. (That will never rust or start to seep.)

Upper ball joints.....I would go ahead and do the lower ones also, while you're there. And give everything else a close look at.

For peace of mind, go around the underside of the frame rail and locate all the ground points. Pay special attention to the one behind the driver side rear wheel, small bolt attaches the ring terminals to the body mount bracket you will find there. High rust area. I replaced all my grounds with stainless ring terminals, soldered to the wire, and attached after sanding to bare metal. They paint over with something rated to prevent rust. That particular ground is important....it gets rusty and falls off, your fuel pump will shut off. You'll find a few all around, located on similar brackets. There's one hiding just above the driver side front tow hook. Driver side of engine, just above oil pan flange, you can reach over the drivers side fender. Back of engine to firewall, and hidden behind the plastic next to your parking brake. (Pop up the door sill, then the plastic shroud behind parking brake pulls toward the read of vehicle. It all snaps in and out.) There's more, but those are the common ones that have issues. Worth taking a look

 

Thank you.