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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
anyone have any problems with aftermarket master power window switch panel.
when i bought truck neither power mirrors worked (physically broken) mirror glass glued
in place. replaced passenger side. works perfect, replaced drivers side months later, only the
fold in out works, mirror was like new, got great price on it, but doesnt work, seller swears it was
tested before it was sold but no refunds, for 49.00 ill try a new switch panel if they work ok.
people want $125 or more for used oem ones. just asking because i know aftermarket HVAC
control panels are garbage
The master switch module in the driver's door, when replaced is supposed to be programmed with a Tech 2. Generally it will be plug and play except for one item.... The driver's door courtesy light will remain on until it's programmed, slowly draining your battery if you don't remove the bulb.
ugh really, if replacing switch doesnt fix mirror, what are the chances i can reinstall old switch without a
reprogram, ill remove bulb for now if it does fix mirror, you would think that living in crowded hell hole
NY that there would be shops all over that would work on this older stuff but iits the opposite, I have an 89
corvette that is a 1 year only 6 speed, you would think im coming in for Edsel parts when i work on it
Yes, the old one can be put back in without reprogramming.
If your replacement works just fine, but leaves that courtesy light in the driver door on.... You can pop the lens off and remove the bulb until such time you feel like getting the module programmed.
The 07 DDM is possible similar to an 05 with the All Up/Down window control buttons in the door panel.
The diagram below shows the DDM PCB circuit that controls the motors, as Extend/Retract works IC1 is probably OK suggesting either the mirror motor mechs are defective or there's a problem with the wiring.
3 possible approaches:-
Listen closely to the outside mirror, if you can hear the motors spinning it suggests the gearing is broken - very, very common.
Prove the DDM is OK by popping it out and putting a multimeter across either C4-7 and C4-8 (Left/Right) or C4-7 and C4-9 (Up/Down) you should read +12V whenever the mirror-switch is operated, note polarity changes with direction.
Swap over the left door/ right door mirror motor assemblies (they're identical) it's quite easy and quick to do
The 07 mirror motor assemblies may have a single PCB connector, however the 05's have individual motor wires and it's easy to get them crossed.
It folds fine. No noise or movement at all for mirror. Need to at least measure across left right switch. I read that if I’m not reprogramming
I need to at least make sure master switch is from a h2 not Chevy truck or the all up/down won’t work. I’ll do some measurements and at least try a new switch assy. Thanks
i know ima dinosaur but did they really need to go thru the bcm for everything.
No, they didn't need to go through the BCM for everything, and have electronic modules for everything. It's one of my pet peeves on all the new vehicles. They keep adding more making it more complicated and less reliable. The 1970s technology for power windows, locks and controlling the dome light was quite simple, effective, easy and inexpensive to repair. They keep trying to build a better mouse trap, and the end result is worse every model year.
Many things have improved, such as the LS engine. With a carburetor on it, or one of the standalone fuel injection systems.... They run extremely reliably. But this quest for technology has tarnished the reliability factor with AFM, VVT, electronic sensors that need to be interpreted by an ECM and so forth.
It irritates the hell out of me as well.... Which is why I will never buy a new vehicle again. Much cheaper to deal with what you know and keep it running and maintained.
I have pondered into the future how people will bypass the BCM functions and go back to 1970s technology. I mean, do we need the technology that keeps the power to the windows and the stereo for a minute or so after you turn the key off, or until you open the door? And how much money did that add to production and the final sales price?
I'm 62 and will keep the H2 in stock configuration.... But if I was 30 years younger, I would already be making plans program my ECM with just the basics using an HP tuner, and bypass all the BCM functions and go old school on much of it. It would involve building an entirely new wire harness, although much more simple than the one that exists in it. 20 years from now that will probably become the norm, with aftermarket switches to make it easier. Lol, enough rambling for now
It folds fine. No noise or movement at all for mirror. Need to at least measure across left right switch. I read that if I’m not reprogramming
I need to at least make sure master switch is from a h2 not Chevy truck or the all up/down won’t work. I’ll do some measurements and at least try a new switch assy. Thanks
i know ima dinosaur but did they really need to go thru the bcm for everything.
The Driver Door Module (DDM) is a sophisticated micro-computer which communicates via the BCM to other modules, for example the PDM with its own power-mirror, door lock, windows etc
Performing complex functions the old way would require a lot more harness, relays and fuses etc, there are so many hidden features in the DDM, for example if a power window is obstructed it will automatically reverse, there is also the express-down function and individual window control, all hard to do without a CPU.
Testing the switches is practically impossible since they form part of complex membrane pad assembly, here's a video showing the DDM construction and how to clean the membrane PCB if you suspect the mirror selector switch isn't working.
Have to say damp and condensation are the No1 problem with these modules, rain soaks in when the doors are left open, once to wet gets in oxidization and corrosion occurs which can rot PCB tracks and the button contacts.
Sticking with the original module would mean one less variable to deal with until you've established the mirror motors are functioning.
You can unplug connector C4 and measure the 2 motor resistances, or as mentioned see if 12V is present across them when you operate the 4-way switch.
You're correct about DDM, there's at least 2 versions, they look the same but earlier modules didn't support the "Global Windows" function as it wasn't required, think that's 03 and 04, also I think the later modules are backwards compatible.
I bought one and no programming was required, available on Amazon and eBay, very cheap.
Last edited by oceanbrave; Aug 18, 2025 at 07:34 AM.