Didn't intend to but had no choice. The driver side oil cooler line had a leak where the hard line joins w/ the rubber hose. I thought I could pull it out w/o removing the front diff. But no chance. Turns out dropping the front diff isn't that big of a deal. Can be done pretty quickly w/ the wheels still on the car in about 30mins. But that's not my question.

Once I had the front diff removed I had wished I was prepared to replace the oil pan gasket b/c that looks to be leaking as well. My question is, how difficult is it to remove that oil pan and replace that gasket without creating more leaks? This is an 08 6.2

 

I would for sure pull the pan and replace the oil pump or at the minimum the oil pump pick up tube O ring and then a new gasket, while you are there. It's not too bad. I have decided that if my oil cooler lines start leaking, that I will just delete them. I don't work my rig hard enough to warrant an oil cooler.

 

That's good information thank you, I'll add those to the shopping list. I'm hoping to get information on tips/tricks for the oil pan gasket and maybe some first-hand experience. It'll be a long job and want to be prepared. For example, dropping that front diff requires at least 2 19mm sockets and one of them has to be at least 1.5" deep. Stuff like that for the oil pan would be helpful. Or the challenges I'll face getting the old one off or the new one seated, etc. I thought I read the transmission has to be removed. If that's the case this is a no-go for me.

 

The critical point of the oil pan gasket is the front and rear corners where the front and rear covers meet the pan gasket, you need to add a very good sealer at those intersections. The other issue is the oil pump pickup o-ring at the pump end, it is very hard to gain access to without removing the oil pan if it breaks (fairly common) so while you've got the pan off I would go ahead and replace it with a new on and also be prepared to replace the oil pickup if showing signs of clogging.

Another leak point which looks as if its coming from the rear oil pan gasket is the valley cover gasket at the top of the engine so if your seeing a leak at the rear make sure to look up top.

Neal

 

Curious what your oil pressure rang is while driving and at idle while warmed up,

I've had the oil pan off of mine along with the front cover, replaced the oil pump and pickup

Neal

 

I couldn't find just the pick-up tube o-ring so I'm hoping if I replace the whole thing that it'll come w/ it:


My oil pressure seems low at idle when it's hot in the summer like around 10ish or lower. But I've switched to a heavier oil (10w-40) and it seems to have helped. This last oil change I put some lucas leak stop, it's super thick. My pressure seems better. Driving it's 40 and at idle just under 20. I'm not sure if fixing the coolant pipe had anything to do w/ that or the leak stop.

Next oil change I'm thinking of dropping the pan and replacing the gasket. I have read about using sealant at the corners of the pan...seem strange but a common practice.

 

The RTV in the corners is to fill in the seam between the block and the front and rear engine covers. So before installing just with your finger swipe a little bit on that same before the gasket goes up there.

 

Another leak point which looks as if its coming from the rear oil pan gasket is the valley cover gasket at the top of the engine so if your seeing a leak at the rear make sure to look up top.

Neal[/QUOTE]

before pulling your intake and going in to look for an oil leak at either the valley cover plate, oil pressure sending unit or the camshaft position sensor.. I'd say go ahead and pick up a gasket for that Valley plate first. I don't think I've ever found an LS engine that didn't have at least one bolt less than finger tight. Our 2014 Escalade had 3/4 of the bolts finger loose. Upon reassembly I like to use the blue Loctite on the bolts. I suspect it's something with the heat and cold Cycles in aluminum expanding and Contracting the loosens up the bolts.
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