Would it be easier to remove the nut from the canister, giving you more room to get to the bracket nuts and remove the canister and bracket together?

 

I tried that approach clsimmon but had no success. The two bolts that connect the bracket to the frame seem to be anchored in the frame... I backed the rear one out all the way so it was loose and flopping around but there was some sort of retainer keeping the end of it connected to the frame. It didn't look like there was enough clearance to remove the forward bolt completely, again because of the lack of wiggle room between the frame and the body panels.

If you have a Sawzall with a metal-cutting blade, the cut-the-post approach is a 2-minute solution, with no downsides - and in fact it makes installation of the new canister that much easier too.

 

I tried everything as you did, the bolts to the frame don't come out and the retaining stud was so long it prevented the canister ear from clearing it to slide it down to get the retaining tabs out of the mounting bracket. Your solution is the best idea I've found for removal, wish I would have thought of it while trying to remove mine.

Thanks for posting, I didn't replace mine, I blew it out with compressed air and tapped on it to loosen the carbon thinking it would help with the slow fill issues. It did help a lot but did not resolve it completely so I was dreading the replacement with a new one but now know how to get at it.

Neal

 

You're welcome! I "grew up" on the Isuzu Vehicross forum 10-15 years ago and am very used to posting any worthwhile repair procedures and tips. It was an excellent technical forum with just a TON of great info on every job and mod... and now that I think of it, the Vehicross was another "orphaned" SUV like the Hummer!! But Hummer parts are waaaay cheaper than VX parts became after Isuzu pulled the plug on their US car business around 2006-2007. Imagine paying $250 for an OE brake rotor, and having to wait 3 weeks for it!

 

CUT THE BOLT STUD FLUSH TO NUT!!!
VehiGaz nailed it= sawzall to stud above nut spray some wd40 and work the nut forward * back to clean threads.
Removal is a cinch. I also replaced the canister valve & purge valve since all 3 have never been done to date. $150 shipped on amazon for all 3 original parts.
Literally 1.5 hours max to do all 3.
To remove the 3 hoses on the canister, I used a small thin long shank screwdriver & gently moved the 2 clips over the lip & slid off before I removed the canister. I sprayed all with WD40 before starting and let sit for 15 minutes. All 3 came off fairly easily. The one on the canister valve with the 1 foot hose I slid out towards rear of vehicle with the vent valve - Installed hose on new vent valve and slid back to newly installed canister. I put a thin coat of silicone "gel" on all the nipples prior to installing the hoses, probably not neccesary but figured it would lubricate the o-rings in the fittings.
Entire job can be done without a lift easily,.
So, dont mess with trying to NOT cut the stud, CUT THE STUD and canister removes easily with ZERO issues.

 

I removed my canister on my 2005 without any issues. I did not have to cut the stud. The canister attaches to the bracket with cleats on the front side. You might have to remove the nut, pull the canister back off the cleats allowing you to remove it from the front side rather than the back side where the nut and stud are located.