H2 door panel plastic blemish
one word of advice is. if you want consistent spray from a spray can only use 1/2 to 3/4 of it. once it starts sputtering it will drip paint instead of spray. i used a red scotch pad to buff the old trim and fanned out any spots that did not have a smooth transition from paint to chip. wash and degrease the panels before painting
Thanks.
I got the paint from lowes hoping to have a good weather this weekend it's been raining for the last few days.
I'm trying to stay away from taking off the door panel becasue it's so easy to damage the tabs from the panel
but I guess i really have to remove it to get a better job.
thanks
I'll post some pics when it's done.
I got the paint from lowes hoping to have a good weather this weekend it's been raining for the last few days.
I'm trying to stay away from taking off the door panel becasue it's so easy to damage the tabs from the panel
but I guess i really have to remove it to get a better job.
thanks
I'll post some pics when it's done.
Yes be very careful removing the door panels. Ours are old and brittle and a used replacement front door panel in good shape is generally $500+ each....
Another thing I forgot about..... I'm not sure what year they changed it but on some early models the actual grab handle is not easily removable but I cannot personally confirm this.
You first remove the screw and the panel in the back of the handle pocket, then two 7mm screws in the metal bracket behind that. Then go around and release the plastic retainers. Ours use two piece retainers (one half stays on the actual door and the peg half stays on the door panel). Best to get a thin plastic wedge to get the edge of the panel out enough that you can then get a panel tool far enough in to pop it loose at the actual retainers.
I'd look on eBay for Hummer H2 door panel and look at some photos of the back of the door panels. That will make it easier to visualize exactly where the plastic retainers are making it easier to know right where to try and get to them to pop them loose.
Another thing I forgot about..... I'm not sure what year they changed it but on some early models the actual grab handle is not easily removable but I cannot personally confirm this.
You first remove the screw and the panel in the back of the handle pocket, then two 7mm screws in the metal bracket behind that. Then go around and release the plastic retainers. Ours use two piece retainers (one half stays on the actual door and the peg half stays on the door panel). Best to get a thin plastic wedge to get the edge of the panel out enough that you can then get a panel tool far enough in to pop it loose at the actual retainers.
I'd look on eBay for Hummer H2 door panel and look at some photos of the back of the door panels. That will make it easier to visualize exactly where the plastic retainers are making it easier to know right where to try and get to them to pop them loose.
Yeah the door panel tabs breaks so easily and yes for panel are not cheap 😟. There are few tabs that is broken on my back door panel lower section, I hate it because there is nothing you can do when the tab is broken and the panel is not secure and it vibrates
so what I did I put clear silicone underneath there panel around the outside only, and it works really well.
Anyway thanks for the info I'll work on them today.
so what I did I put clear silicone underneath there panel around the outside only, and it works really well.
Anyway thanks for the info I'll work on them today.
Yep they can often be repaired as long as you have the broken bits. Lately I've been using a combination of things. First a tiny bit of super glue to just stick the broken bit precisely back in place. Then depending on how thick the plastic is, sometimes a soldering iron on low heat (do not want to burn the plastic) with a flat tip and melt some of the plastic back together. Final step is to use JB Weld Plastic Repair epoxy.
The plastic epoxies can be fiddly though. The liquid one is the one I prefer but the dual tube dispenser can often be annoying to get it to dispense the same amount of resin and hardener as one syringe or the other will tend to stick a bit more than the other then you push harder and end up squirting too much out and/or and uneven amount of each. I usually carefully cut the two tubes apart and dispense individually which give me a lot better control of the amounts. It does take a few to start to thicken enough to not run but depending on the area you need to repair you will often need to build up a good bit around the joint section to make it strong enough. Some examples are the taller metal trim bits. You will probably be fine to reinstall them after curing but with the amount of pressure it takes to remove certain ones, they will likely break again if you try to remove that part again later. You can also get creative by using some bits of masking tape to build a dam around certain bits to contain it letting you fill it up more. For places where you want a thicker or easier to build up mixture the stick version also works great but with its own limitations.
Of course with plastics there are always variables like what specific types of plastics can be repaired with what types of epoxies. These two generally will not work well with softer flexible plastics like black bumpers but there are other epoxies that are chemically designed for those too. The key is generally to make sure the area is clean, the epoxy is dispensed with the right amount of resin and hardener, is mixed well, and applied before it starts setting up too much.
Liquid one - Stick one -
The plastic epoxies can be fiddly though. The liquid one is the one I prefer but the dual tube dispenser can often be annoying to get it to dispense the same amount of resin and hardener as one syringe or the other will tend to stick a bit more than the other then you push harder and end up squirting too much out and/or and uneven amount of each. I usually carefully cut the two tubes apart and dispense individually which give me a lot better control of the amounts. It does take a few to start to thicken enough to not run but depending on the area you need to repair you will often need to build up a good bit around the joint section to make it strong enough. Some examples are the taller metal trim bits. You will probably be fine to reinstall them after curing but with the amount of pressure it takes to remove certain ones, they will likely break again if you try to remove that part again later. You can also get creative by using some bits of masking tape to build a dam around certain bits to contain it letting you fill it up more. For places where you want a thicker or easier to build up mixture the stick version also works great but with its own limitations.
Of course with plastics there are always variables like what specific types of plastics can be repaired with what types of epoxies. These two generally will not work well with softer flexible plastics like black bumpers but there are other epoxies that are chemically designed for those too. The key is generally to make sure the area is clean, the epoxy is dispensed with the right amount of resin and hardener, is mixed well, and applied before it starts setting up too much.
Liquid one - Stick one -
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