Failed controls on H2 driver power seat
#21
No. There was no moisture or corrosion, but thanks for asking. What made you think that?
Last edited by finall; 08-09-2023 at 02:08 PM.
#24
here's a recap:
and I surrender ....
- Seat not jammed.
- No wiring faults.
- Connectors OK
- Connectors mating OK
- No bad switch contacts or PCB tracks.
- Nothing mechanical preventing the switches moving, nothing jamming them
- No moisture involved
- Torq used to remove the facia and reveal the problem.
- the actuator works
- the seat module works (yet it doesn't)
and I surrender ....
#25
here's a recap:
and I surrender ....
- Seat not jammed.
- No wiring faults.
- Connectors OK
- Connectors mating OK
- No bad switch contacts or PCB tracks.
- Nothing mechanical preventing the switches moving, nothing jamming them
- No moisture involved
- Torq used to remove the facia and reveal the problem.
- the actuator works
- the seat module works (yet it doesn't)
and I surrender ....
#26
Well, @oceanbrave you got very close.
Here is the answer:
The seat forward/backwards and seatback rake switches reside in one black plastic sub-assembly.
They contain no electrical contacts, because they are simply bits of plastic.
That outer sub-assembly is normally mated to a PBC board sub-assembly behind it. Sandwiched directly against the swich sub-assembly.
The PCB board has a number of micro-switches attached to the side that contact the tangs on the 2 seat-side plastic switches.
It is this series of microswitches that operate the aforementioned seat movements.
The PCB board sub-assembly has 4 plastic tangs on its outer edge which mate up (interlock into) 4 plastic cutouts on the seat switch sub-assembly.
Normally, these 2 assemblies snap together, and are held together via these 4 plastic tangs.
The switches moved in exactly the same way when they were working, as when they were not working. There was no hint of an internal problem.
Mysteriously, these 4 tangs separated from the outer plastic switch sub-assembly.
A tiny gap was created, which ensured zero contact of the seat-side switches to the PCB micro switches.
No, the tangs did not break. The assemblies just popped apart.
Bizarre discombobulation.
Repair consisted of simply firmly snapping the 2 halves together. And reattaching to the seat via the 4 Torx screws.
Now you know the rest of the story.
Now only questions remain:
1. How could this possibly have happened? What force could be so strong as to pry this assembly apart, and yet not snap any tangs?
There was no work done in that area of the vehicle. So what sinister poltergeist forces are responsible for this?
2. Will it happen again (since the cause is undetermined)? If it does. I will need to glue (or ziptie if possible) the assembly back together.
Here is the answer:
The seat forward/backwards and seatback rake switches reside in one black plastic sub-assembly.
They contain no electrical contacts, because they are simply bits of plastic.
That outer sub-assembly is normally mated to a PBC board sub-assembly behind it. Sandwiched directly against the swich sub-assembly.
The PCB board has a number of micro-switches attached to the side that contact the tangs on the 2 seat-side plastic switches.
It is this series of microswitches that operate the aforementioned seat movements.
The PCB board sub-assembly has 4 plastic tangs on its outer edge which mate up (interlock into) 4 plastic cutouts on the seat switch sub-assembly.
Normally, these 2 assemblies snap together, and are held together via these 4 plastic tangs.
The switches moved in exactly the same way when they were working, as when they were not working. There was no hint of an internal problem.
Mysteriously, these 4 tangs separated from the outer plastic switch sub-assembly.
A tiny gap was created, which ensured zero contact of the seat-side switches to the PCB micro switches.
No, the tangs did not break. The assemblies just popped apart.
Bizarre discombobulation.
Repair consisted of simply firmly snapping the 2 halves together. And reattaching to the seat via the 4 Torx screws.
Now you know the rest of the story.
Now only questions remain:
1. How could this possibly have happened? What force could be so strong as to pry this assembly apart, and yet not snap any tangs?
There was no work done in that area of the vehicle. So what sinister poltergeist forces are responsible for this?
2. Will it happen again (since the cause is undetermined)? If it does. I will need to glue (or ziptie if possible) the assembly back together.
Last edited by finall; 08-09-2023 at 08:41 PM.
#27
#28
Electrical cleaner was a reply to oceanbrave
My reply to you, was loose connector AKA connection!
With the switch panel partially working, I would pull it /inspect / properly fix/secure! Before reinstall, clean/seal connectors/contacts.
#30
as to what dislodged it i would think a few too many bears around the belly. forcing the cushion to mash the trim panel thus wedging the switch to the track slider and separating it..
Last edited by bronxteck; 08-10-2023 at 09:35 AM.