Again, terrible idea and in the long run makes it even worse. It is cooking what little plasticizer is left in the plastic out making the plastic more brittle. It is a short term fix that when it fades again, it will do so even worse than before. You know how the top surface of super aged plastics can literally start to crumble.... that is what you are accelerating when this is done. Properly cleaning and coating plastics is a far better solution to prolong the life. Blak (can get on Amazon) works well for protecting since it is an actual polymer coating that will last 6 months or more. Also Penetrol (by Flood - its a paint conditioner) works great on protecting plastics for 6+ months. Some other products also work but but most only last a few weeks at best. Then heavier coatings like Gatorbak or flexible paints (specifically for plastics) are the best options.

 

recieved driver door handle now I'm all stressed out

Difficulty installing outside door handles & lock cylinder Hummer H2

The good partially.

I only see one door handle rod it’s for the handle to open. I’ve managed to connect it an open door.





Can’t find the 2nd rod for lock cylinder for the lever. I purchased this H2 w/out the driver door handle didn’t think it was a big deal bc I’ve replaced other GM handles so this lever maynot be in the door. Anyone have a image of where this rod should be?



I managed to get one attachment nut (nut next to lock cylinder) on the plastic handle only bc I noticed the rear handles hole was half open so was able to slide into hole. Next round I think I’ll be able to tighten this rear nut w/ gearwrenh.



The other 2 nuts I can’t get nut on the handles bolt threads, tried w/ window up an down. Starting to think the window has to be removed to install this dam handle?



I believe I have the lock cylinder oriented in correct position it has 2 side wings then a top slot I believe this is the only way it can fit in order to shove it in enough so its outside is up against the handle.







Can’t figure out the lock cylinders lock in place retainer




Can’t find the 2nd rod for lock cylinder for the lever.

I purchased this H2 w/out the driver door handle didn’t think it was a big deal bc I’ve replaced other GM handles . Sellers for lock and handle couldn’t be bothered to provide instructions. Not gonna mention dropping the 1st nut inside door. Wasted over 1 hour feeling around shaking door an sweeping w/ magent it’s like it’s near the actuator will buy another nut hope the loose nut won’t jam up the regulator.

At this point I’ll be satisfied w/ just a door handle that’s if I can get those dam nuts on. I’ll just rely on the key FOB to unlock carry a spare battery in wallet.

considering the amount of time invested w/ these dam handles At this point it would’ve been easier to replace to whole door. thanks for any advice

 

did you install these outside handles?
for front driver side I can't get the nuts on. did you remove the window?

for the driver rear I was able to get the nuts on however the handle is allready pulled out about half inch so the rest of the throw of handle outward doesn't travel far enough to trigger the mechanism.
I think the rods lenght needs adjusting to allow handle to seat all the way in the handles rest position?
please advice.

 

It has been several years but if I remember right I did take the window loose from its mount (did not fully remove it although the service manual says to fully remove the window for door handle replacement). I think I also took one side window track loose. Then was able to angle the window inside the door to allow access to the handle bolts. I did remember that I scratched the window tint in one spot though. Quite possible that the lock rod has simply swiveled down and is hanging down inside the door from the latch.

See the attached PDF. Hopefully this will help....

 

thanks MixManSC 3rd attempt I'll move or remove the window on front driver side.
any tips you can remember on window removing?
hopefully I can adjust / lenghten the rod for the driver side rear door. will report back.

 

MixMan is correct. Raise the window, and remove the outer window channel with the 2 10mm screws. Then, loosen the 2 10mm nuts that clamp the window to the regulator and carefully roll the window down. Next, unseat the window from the regulator and then slide it carefully down inside the door between sheet metal and the regulator out of harm's way. This will give you clear access to all the bolts for the front door handles (and mirror if it requires servicing).

Note, if you are missing the lock cylinder rod, it's probably lying at the bottom of your door. If not connected on both ends, those rods will fall off the lock mechanism.

 

well I wished I knew the window needed removing on attempts 1 an 2. now I have a real procedure.
these Guys made it look easy
however I observed them removing only the 2 bolts inside the door.
where are these screws "remove the outer window channel with the 2 10mm screws. "
kindof surprised there wasn't a piece of metal attached to the glass. sure hope it's as easy to reinstall. my luck I'll break the glass.

I sure hope the lock rod is in the door. thanks for advicing.will report back

 

See below the location of the window channel. I think you will find that this procedure isn't all that difficult. After you unseat the window from the regulator, push the window up from the regulator with one hand while pulling up through the window opening with the other hand. You will see it's easy to navigate the pane down into the door. It's more difficult to pull the pane completely out of the door as you will risk breaking it unless you remove all the weatherstripping.

 

I thought I understood the window removal from regulator now I’m confussed.



I do see bolt 18 on the exploded view an on the y-tube video.remove the rubber bolt cover then loosen it.

I do see bolt 19 on the exploded view.reach inside door to loosen 19 however on y-tube video I was lead to believe the 2nd bolt was iirc bolt 13 an loosened from top of window where the rubber seal was?

Video appeared to be unbolting a horizontal window holder like at 9 0-clock an 3 o-clock.



So the window is being held by a vertical bar?



I assumed the window holder was horizontal.so now it makes sense that the window must be turned 90 degrees to remove.



I have observed this bar inside door it’s right in the dam way of the handles bolts 16 an I think maybe 17.



So instead of completely removeing window just turn it 90 degrees an leave inside door.

The weather is changing to the rainie season so I’ll have to wait for a break.



Window sits on regulator looks like clips then Window slides up on 8 I bet 8 has rollers inside the rail?



Thanks for explaining an the image.


I thought ytuber wanted window up then removed bolts at 9 o-clock an 3 o-clock.

what # is the lock cylinder rod?either 26 or 27 I know how it attaches to the handle but can't see where the other end attachs.
thanks again clsimmon.

 

The window is being held by the two clips (that have 10mm bolts) at the bottom of the window regulator (#2). The window runs up and down a channel (#8) as you've noted in the picture. #8 is just a passive galvanized channel that has a rubber liner for the window to track up and down in. It has no moving parts. You can either do it the way of the YouTube video or the way I suggested, it doesn't matter either way. The YT way requires the removal of the weatherstripping and not the channel (#8), my way doesn't require the removal of the weatherstripping, but the removal of the channel. I've always done it my way because I never want to break the seals of the weatherstripping and I also believe you to be correct that the channel is still in the way of the handle and must be removed anyway. The order should be window up, channel removal and loosen regulator bolts, window down, and unseat window from the regulator by pulling it up slightly to clear the regulator, and then slide it back down away from the regulator inside the door.

#27 is going to be for your lock cylinder. It's part number 15055885