If it’s running great I would just bolt it on and go. You see people running ridiculous amounts of boost on higher mileage junkyard engines and they hold up just fine. Your engine will probably out last the supercharger and then you can rebuild both of them 100k from now. Proper tuning a must. I was looking at the whipple and it would probably be my choice.

 

Agreed. I would personally stick with a roots type (most are Eaton made rotor packs) like Magnuson, Whipple, Edelbrock (even the factory GM ones are this type) as they make more power and torque on the bottom end and across the board versus the centrifugal types from Procharger, Vortech, etc which make power more on the upper end. I'm not very often running around in my H2 in the 4000-6000 rpm range.... The centrifugal type are in a basic sense a turbo that is belt driven instead of exhaust driven. They can in general be had for a bit less money and sometimes an easier thing to install though. Roots type ones generally replace your entire intake manifold and are usually designed to reuse your existing throttle body.

Going to cost you though. If you are looking for the simplest than get the full kit that includes a pre-programmed tuner, bolt it all on over a weekend and done. For even better performance add long tube headers and a decent cat back exhaust as well but then you are really wanting to also get a custom tune done to take better advantage of that additional airflow and exhaust scavenging.

One last bit on any of the superchargers to also be aware of..... fuel costs. Any of them are going to require that you ONLY run premium fuel unless you get custom tune done to pull the timing back enough to run regular fuel without any predetonation (knocking and pinging which can damage things).

 

Thanks for the info MIxManSC, we typically put premium in anyway b/c it runs cooler when towing. I bought a bore camera to check the carbon build up; I just need to find the time to use it. And I'm thinking of the magnuson kit b/c it seemed the most complete w/ the tuner and instructions.

 

That is the kit I'd be getting if I were going to be adding one....

 

The L92 both heads and block are aluminum

I have mine torn down right now for upgrades, at 142000 miles the bottom end bearing clearances are almost perfect but the cam bearings were a little worn so they got replaced.

I wouldn't worry about putting a blower on an ls with 120000 miles.

Neal

 

Great, thanks for the info! Did you notice significant carbon buildup?

 

The PCV systems are known to be inadequate so without question add a catch can.

I found out the hard way, my intake had around a quart of oil sitting in the bottom of it caused by the PCV system.

Neal

 

Yes, the carbon buildup was bad due to the PCV system.

I cleaned everything and added the catch can. I added the catch can about 6 or 7 months prior to pulling the engine, it was still clean.

Neal

 

I replaced my spark plugs and wires and stuck a bore camera in each cylinder. Nothing too alarming. My mechanic neighbor viewed the images and gave me some Valvoline additive to clean it up.

Also, I took advantage of a cyber Monday deal and ordered the Magnuson Supercharger. I'm trying to think of things I should replaces as preventative maintenance while I have the manifold off. The only thing I can think of is the oil pressure sending unit. If the kit doesn't come w/ new intake gaskets I'll do those as well. What else can you guys think of?

 

If you haven't done them already i would take a look at your knock sensors and poss replace if they are corroded. Then seal them up nicely. other than the gaskets and the oil pressure sensor, not much else in that area.