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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
Here's the low pressure switch they probably jumped , on the top left side of the dryer
To locate the high pressure one, you can follow the wires usually right below your coolant reservoir right to the sensor in the aluminum Hardline right at the passenger edge of the radiator about halfway down.
Considering this is a vehicle from Michigan with a patina of rust...LOL... I'd recommend that one of the first things you do is get on a creeper, and go around the underside of the frame rail where you will find several ground locations. (For example, look above the driver side tow hook in the front bumper.) Unbolt each one, sand down to bare metal, including the ring terminals at the end of the wires. You might want to just crimp and solder new ring terminals if they're too far gone. Go on Amazon and pick up a whole set of stainless steel ones in different sizes. I'd replace the ground bolts with stainless steel as well. You'll find them around the frame rail on the brackets that support the body mounts. Pay special attention to the one behind the left rear wheel. It gets a lot of road spray, salt and mud..... And several components use that ground location including your fuel pump. Search this forum, a few people have posted a sheet with a list of all the ground locations that you won't find without that list. Like behind the parking brake pedal. Simply pop up the plastic door sill at the bottom of the driver's door opening, and then the plastic piece around the parking brake pulls back towards the rear of the vehicle. Everything snaps back into position. That's another really important ground. One bad ground in one circuit, and the voltage follows all sorts of paths trying to find a ground, often through many electronic modules. Which will trigger several random issues and make you pull your hair out
Finish this inspection up with preferably new battery cables, including the ground that goes to the driver side of the engine block just above the oil pan lip. And of course the ground strap from the back of the engine to the firewall. Only after all of this can you trust any trouble codes you get...."usually"
Hi Robert I replied to you and Doc on the other thread earlier this morning, I didn't know how to get to this thread.
Guess I need to get a creeper again! Thank you for the information about the pressure switch, too. My dryer is wrapped and looks nothing like yours - I live on a dirt road. Thanks again, Robert.
Your switch is either under that insulation blanket around the dryer, and sometimes it's actually mounted in the aluminum pipe within five or six inches of the dryer.
HI Robert,
They replaced the fuse box and the AC is running. Fuel gauge and oil pressure needles don't read correctly but the AC works. Thanks again for all your help. John
As for the oil pressure and fuel level gauges, the stepper motors that control the needles are notorious for going bad. I paid $180 to a mobile cluster repair guy locally that came out and replaced all stepper motors and LED lights in the cluster. You might want to verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge.... Make sure you have nothing going on there. Oil pressure sensors as well as the oil too pick up o-ring are common issues. Your your fuel level sensors integral with your fuel pump inside the fuel tank. It uses the ground location behind the left rear tire.
Proactively checking all your grounds will save you headaches in the future for sure.
