Hummer H2 For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.

3 core radiator and elec fan conversion

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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 03:18 PM
  #11  
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Yep - will need to be EFI Live or HP Tuners (or some other custom tuning solution). I'm not aware of any handheld tuner that can enable them as there is a good number of parameters that need to be entered after enabling them. I have EFI Live - this is what some of the options are....

Another couple of bits of info that will be needed will be to determine what the correct AC head pressures should be on our H2's. I'd prob just cross reference to verify that the trucks use the same compressor and if so go with the stock truck numbers to start. This is what EFI Live showed for a stock tune for an 05 Tahoe, LQ9 6.0. Probably close but I've seen other tunes show much different pressure values....


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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 12:28 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by tharber
Champion makes them and they are sold under several companies. I had issues with their vendor so went to Amazon. I'll see if the box has a manufacturer name on it but I don't think it did. It was $217 and is extremely well built and included all the fitting and hard line clips. The Champion units were about the same price. I see no need to go to Be Cool or Griffins ate 3 x the price.

The key is to make sure you get a 34" core, not the smaller version. It was a direct fit with only very minor trimming needed. I think they are the same for Silverado's, Escalades, etc....

One word of warning to everyone....DO NOT, repeat DO NOT try to remove the quick connect fittings from the plastic ends of the factory radiator. The oil and trans-cooler inside will drop and you will never, ever get it attached again and then there is no way to seal the radiator. I tore mine apart just to see why they fail. Imagine a small metal/aluminum radiator looking apparatus inside the plastic end caps. They would have had to have been connected at the factory prior to the plasatic end caps being installed to the radiator core.

My electric fan conversion was a bust however. I purchased a fan set up out of a 2007 Denali and it would have worked except the oil lines would have needed to be cut or re-bent. I was over the whole project so put the manual fan back in. If you buy fans make sure you get the wiring harness too. You will then need to connect the harness to the PCM to have the computer control the high and low speed. That requires a tuner to activate that part of the computer. You can buy harnesses either with the fans like I did from a junkyard or thru company's like Nelson or PCM of NC. Not sure of their cost but I only have $100 in my whole setup.

I'll re-address the install one day again...maybe. The truck runs 180 to 190 as it sites so I am happy. I wanted teh electric fans because I plan on adding a LSA blower soon but I might shelve that too.

Tim
I ordered the factory oil lines for a 2008/09 H2. I have yet to install it but it looks like it will work. It was really cheap like 70$ I went with the becool and I’m happy with it but it was expensive but I think it’s thicker than most.
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 12:20 AM
  #13  
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i went the lazy root with the Be Cool version paired with Flex a Lite 294 fan and changed the alternator to Mechman b8206370b elite 370-amp with big 3 to cope with the 6000-cfm fans


 
Old Apr 25, 2020 | 03:37 PM
  #14  
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So after a few weeks driving around, my temp stays a solid 18) degrees running and will jump up to 185 sitting ideling in traffic. I'd say that's pretty good. I'm happy.

I don't know if the electric fans will improve that or not. I'll get into those another day. Thanks Maxjeep for the tip for the 08-09 oil lines, that would have made all the difference in the word I', sure.

Tim
 
Old Apr 25, 2020 | 06:43 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by tharber
So after a few weeks driving around, my temp stays a solid 18) degrees running and will jump up to 185 sitting ideling in traffic. I'd say that's pretty good. I'm happy.

I don't know if the electric fans will improve that or not. I'll get into those another day. Thanks Maxjeep for the tip for the 08-09 oil lines, that would have made all the difference in the word I', sure.

Tim
Tim, 195°F is the optimal engine temperature. Negative effects occur,(excess moisture,carbon,wear) operating at a lower temp.
 
Old Apr 26, 2020 | 07:02 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by hummerz
Tim, 195°F is the optimal engine temperature. Negative effects occur,(excess moisture,carbon,wear) operating at a lower temp.
With respect you're confusing oil temperature and water temperature. They are not the same but unfortunately I do not have the ability to read oil temp. I also switched over to HOAT anti freeze to solve some of the issues associated with the Dex cool problems. It will need a re-tune to adjust AFR but that's the only negative aspect right now. Oil temps will typically run 50 degrees more than water temp. . I am sure those temps will rise as it gets hot here in FL but as it sits, it is perfect. My future plans of a supercharger have also dictated increased cooling capacity. Transmission temps while lower putzing around are normal on highway driving.

Tim
 
Old Apr 28, 2020 | 12:59 PM
  #17  
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When I tried the BeCool in my 08 it was going to be cutting/triming of the radiator, fan housing, and bending of hard lines. It felt like a square peg in a round hole for the money. So I returned it. I feel like the BeCool was not designed to fit the OEM fans to.
 
Old Apr 28, 2020 | 01:42 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mulepic
When I tried the BeCool in my 08 it was going to be cutting/triming of the radiator, fan housing, and bending of hard lines. It felt like a square peg in a round hole for the money. So I returned it. I feel like the BeCool was not designed to fit the OEM fans to.
I sent my factory radiator to them and they made mine to match it. It was a tight fit but it fit. I did have to shim the shroud and trim the flange on it because it was thicker than original. Lines were a perfect fit. I run under 200 always. You will never get the true benefit of the radiator without electric fans because the mechanical fan doesn’t lock up until a higher temp I believe. I also went with Evans waterless coolant and it’s weird being able to drive a few hours and take the cap off. I also wanted to use transmission and oil cooler and not have to worry about it it failing ever again. Anything you choose is better than what it came with.
 
Old Apr 28, 2020 | 02:48 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tharber
With respect you're confusing oil temperature and water temperature. They are not the same but unfortunately I do not have the ability to read oil temp. I also switched over to HOAT anti freeze to solve some of the issues associated with the Dex cool problems. It will need a re-tune to adjust AFR but that's the only negative aspect right now. Oil temps will typically run 50 degrees more than water temp. . I am sure those temps will rise as it gets hot here in FL but as it sits, it is perfect. My future plans of a supercharger have also dictated increased cooling capacity. Transmission temps while lower putzing around are normal on highway driving.

Tim
195°F Coolant temp. Optimal oil temp is above 212°F. At operating temperature, oil temp is around 15°F above coolant temp.
Engine oil needs to be at least 212°F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 212 degrees (water's boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion by-product) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings.

Keep Your Engine Alive: The Importance of Oil Temperature

One of the things you will find if you have a oil pressure or temperature gauge is that regardless of the fact that oil is running through your engine and cooling it just like the coolant - it takes on and loses heat differently than coolant.

Oil temperature is probably the most important thing to know, specifically for those of us who are pushing our cars hard. Free reving (or worse - racing) on an engine that has not fully reached it's oil operating temperature is extremely dangerous. But don't think that the coolant gauge will tell you this information - it won't.

As a general rule of thumb, after the car is warmed up, oil tends to be a few degrees warmer than the coolant (usually 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit).

However, it takes much longer for oil to come up to temperature than coolant. When you start your car in the morning, most of us are wise enough to not romp on the car until the coolant gauge is up to operating temperature. This is certainly better than romping on it cold, but it's still not quite ideal.

You see, the oil, especially in colder ambient temperatures, takes several times longer to come up to temperature.

Oil will not get to complete operating temperature easily by simply idling, it requires driving around and putting SOME load on the engine. I see people in the pits at races all the time reving their motors to 'warm the engine up'. It won't do any good and is only putting premature wear on the car.

The best way to get a car's oil temperature up is to simply drive it around for a few minutes. Ideally you'd have an oil temperature gauge to tell you when it's at operating temperature - and oil pressure gauge (lower pressure) would also tell you this information.

What's the danger of running an engine cold?

Total engine failure.

Well, that may seem a little extreme, as certainly all of us have run a engine that was cold, hard. We probably even got away with it due to the amazingly good engine design we have today. However, it's an extremely risky thing to do and can easily result in catastrophic engine failure. ESPECIALLY in highly tuned, built engines.

If the engine is way too cold (ie, the coolant hasn't even come up to temps), it's not making its ideal power either. VTEC engines actually do not engage VTEC unless the coolant is up to temperature, for example - this is true of many other variable valve timing technologies as well. Think of it as Honda trying to save you from yourself.

In all engines, the engine's clearances are significantly tighter, creating extreme amounts of stress on the engine's internals and the piston rings will not have properly sealed with oil temps too low.

In short - it's really bad for your engine to run it hard until it's OIL is completely warmed up. Coolant temperature is a false indicator.

So without going out and buying an oil gauge and all that, what's the big take away from this discussion?

When you first start running your car for the day, make sure to keep the revs low and take it easy for at very least the first 5 or so minutes of driving, longer in extreme cold temperatures. Most importantly, and least obviously - don't trust your coolant gauge to be a good indicator that your engine is fully warmed up.

In cars with oil coolers that utilize the coolant to cool (used on many imports, sandwhiched between the oil filter and the block), the oil temp will actually come up with the coolant as an added bonus to keeping oil temperatures cooler under high loads.

If you're putting gauges in your car, you might also consider an oil temp or pressure gauge as it can be a real tool in assessing the load on your engine and keep you aware of situations that might harm the reliability of your engine. This is especially true in turbocharged engines or on high speed circuits as engine oil can actually cook if it gets too hot, ruining it's lubricating properties and resulting in - yep, engine failure.

Remember, an engine fully warmed up but not heat soaked creates optimum power. In the real world, this means when you're driving down the highway and the engine is plenty warm and the airflow through the engine bay is taking warm air from the engine bay out through the bottom of the car. Never try to get a better time at the drag strip by running with cold engine oil and never try to warm a car up by reving the engine.

Keeping this advice in mind will certainly keep your engine alive much longer and prevent you from having a really bad day.
 

Last edited by hummerz; Apr 28, 2020 at 03:17 PM.
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