Just my luck and i've had it a bit over a month. Went out to start up and when I turn key I just get clicks and engine light flashes. Clicking so loud it seems to be coming through speakers too. Advise? Dead battery?? I've tried using 2 key fobs and keys, unlocking and locking.

 

I'll guess: A) dead [very weak] battery; and/or B) you still have the POS OEM battery terminals.






OK, so that might be a guess and a half. Always go with the easy stuff first.

Do you have a volt meter or a battery load tester?

 

I do have a VM Doc. Need to go check. I just tried to jump it without luck. I'm sensing the security system has be locked out (not physically outside but from starting). I had a heck of an experience with a shady dealer getting a second key and fob.... feels booby trapped.

I was on the phone with Onstar and they didn't show any codes or problem. They advised re-securing gas cap to eliminate check engine light. Advised tow in to dealer for security light.

Let me go check voltage. In fact i'll disconnect the POS OEM and reattach too while I'm at it.

 

11.13V, removed both POS and NEG and cleaned terminals with steel wool and tightened back on. Same thing.

 

I'll have to think drained battery. 11.3v is in less than 10% charge range right? Would a jump do me good enough to run to NTB?

 

a jump may not work if you have bad connections.
if it starts read the batt volts running, 14-15. drive 20 minutes and try to start.
it sounds like conn to me.

 

Happy, happy, happy! Thought I'd post resolution for archive purposes. I put a charger on it an hour and it fired right up. I know I shouldn't have pulled so early but did. Idled about 20 and then drove some errands for a bit. After returning home VM read 12.5. I'll have to take another read cold in the morning. I'm guessing a drain from dome lights or short. Or perhaps batt is actually ready to be replaced. Either way will know soon.

For what it's worth I've never heard such a racket. That clicking was concerning as there wasn't the slightest sound or feel of it even trying to turn over. Onstar sure was convenient and they put me right in touch with a tech but sure glad I didn't have it towed like a dum dum. I did find out that engine powertrain issue would have been covered though. Is 100k standard? Appreciate the help here folks I thought for sure I might have been sabotaged the way I was treated post sale at this Chevy dealership. And btw those batt terminals are garbage Doc as you stated.

 

normal drain is 110 milliamp,read with a digital volt meter with one batt cable unhooked. it reads 2 amps for one minute,then 110 ma. doors closed!
in the morn volts appx 12v.

all this has been posted here 100 times.

 

I have had the same thing happen on both the h3 and the T. When it happens you must leave the key in the on position for 10 minutes then apply the break and with one motion turn to off then start without pause. If it doesnt work the first time repeat. I have heard there is a sensor in the ignition switch that can get dirty and cause this. Hope this helps!

 

It should still start at 11 dead batt is not the problem. Ive run mine dead leaving lights on and it charges its self back up