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I have a 2008 hummer h3 alpha and would like to install 20 inch wheels with 35 inch tires. What do I need to check to see if this would clear and not rub. It looks like the truck has some type of lift not sure if from the dealer or if alphas are normally higher. If I need a lift kit can you post a link to the place that sells them.
I run 35,s and raised the front up with tortion keys,Then installed a simple 1 inch drop spacer kit which lowers down the front differential to maintain stock axle angles which maintains the integrity of the axle joint and boots,whithout the drop kit the axle angles and maxed out.
I installed the Bilstein (24-186643) 5100 shocks in the front and have stocks in the rear and the front is about 1/2 inch higher. Then the rear. Also there is a gap on the bump stops. Anyone know where they sell the extended bump stops? Trail duty is not responding to emails or phone not sure if they got impacted by the hurricane. Hopefully not.
The gap between the bump stop and the arm is supposed to be there.
Until the suspension is loaded and the arm bangs against the bump stop to prevent from ruining the shock and metal-to-metal collisions.
They are not actually just "bump stops" they are progressive dampeners used as part of the entire front suspension on a GM IFS system. They bend and flex to give you better control and a softer ride. The Non-GM "bump stops" do not have the same progressive rate of compression/deflection in them and will exhibit different ride qualities.
"You may notice that the LCA on the HUMMER IFS seems to be resting on its upper bump stop. This is not only a bump stop, but what is called a progressive dampener. It compresses at a progressive rate, simulating a progressive rate spring, and letting the torsion bars achieve close to a progressive feel. Another con is as you increase the ride height by adjusting your keys, the ride gets worse. Now it’s a common misconception that there is more of a load on the bar and this is the cause. That is impossible since the LCA moves as well, so there is no more torsion on the bar than before, the spring rate does not actually change like many belive. The twisting action does not change the pre-load on the bar directly, so cranking your bars is just like adding a block in the rear or a coil spacer. It is simply changing the position of the spring. Just to clear things up, pre-load is the amount by which the torsion bar can't return to its original (unloaded) position due to be installed in the truck."
Depending on the amount of torsion bar adjustment there will be a gap between the lower A-arm and the progressive dampener. Stock was about 1/4". Once adjusted to "level" the vehicle it can be as much as 1" or more!
Trail Duty is the only one I have ever heard of who makes extended dampeners.
I appreciate all the post and replies. I actually had a 2 to 2-1/2 lift installed
It was a rough country product. Mikes Truck and Toys installed it in Pasadena Tx. Also had it aligned
I then changed from 285 75R16s to 315 75R16s
Love the new look. Looks more like a truck than a little truck
[QUOTE=daniel5455;347058]Finally got my 20s with 35 inch Nittos. I need to get stiffer shocks. Any recommendations?
I really want to do this to my H3. What all did you have to do to make the 35s fit on 20s on the H3? Is it stock or lifted or just leveled? Looks great!
Finally got my 20s with 35 inch Nittos. I need to get stiffer shocks. Any recommendations?
I really want to do this to my H3. What all did you have to do to make the 35s fit on 20s on the H3? Is it stock or lifted or just leveled? Looks great!
Dude this is sick!
